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Common Name(s): Thiol/sulfide reducing agent,keratin disulfide reducer,perm or depilatory active
CAS Number: N/a
DESCRIPTION
What It Does: Reduces cystine disulfide crosslinks in keratin allowing hair reshaping (perm) or shaft dissolution (depilatory) through thiol-disulfide exchange chemistry.
Why It's Used: Eu annex iii regulates thioglycolate perm actives (8% max) and depilatory metal sulfides at specific concentrations and ph ranges โ functional concentration must be balanced against skin safety within regulatory limits.
How It Works: Thiolate (rsโป) at alkaline ph attacks cystine disulfide: rsโป + ker-ss-ker โ ker-s-sr + ker-sโป โ 2 ker-sh. complete disulfide reduction at ~ph 9 with thioglycolate allows hair cortex protein chain movement for reshaping. metal sulfides (sยฒโป) hydrolyse to hโs at alkaline ph providing stronger, faster reduction for depilatory dissolution.
Typically Found In: Permanent waves,depilatories
TECHNICAL DETAILS
Primary Category: Active ingredient โ cosmetic active
Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning
Application Areas:
Facial Skincare
Body Care
Hair Care
Beard Care
Color Cosmetics (Makeup)
Dietary/Oral Supplements
Typical Concentration Range: Per eu annex iii limits
SOURCING & ETHICS
Vegan Status: Conditional - supplier confirmation required
Halal Status: Unverified - supplier confirmation required
Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier. [audit 2026-07-29 rev2: the record's own source_notes does not assert a non-animal origin, or instructs the reader to verify with the supplier; "yes" asserts knowledge the record does not hold. determination requires shariah-panel sign-off.]
SKIN COMPATIBILITY
Irritancy Rating: 1/5 โ very low
Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 โ non-comedogenic
Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.
Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes
SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY
Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1โ2.
Works Well With: Standard skincare actives
Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities
SCIENTIFIC NOTE
Eu annex iii: ammonium thioglycolate max 8% at ph 7โ9.5 for perm; 5% at ph 7โ12.7 for depilatory. calcium thioglycolate hydroxide and strontium sulfide restricted to depilatory use at defined concentrations.
Last Verified: 2026-03-12
Primary Sources: Cosing database,eu annex iii perm depilatory reducing agent