Common Name(s): Azelex,azelaic acid active,brightening anti-acne keratolytic

CAS Number: N/a

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Inhibits tyrosinase to reduce hyperpigmentation, provides keratolytic comedolytic exfoliation for acne, reduces inflammatory cytokines in rosacea, and normalises epidermal cell turnover.

Why It's Used: Unique triple-function active — brightening, anti-acne, and anti-rosacea — in a single molecule; fda prescription at 15–20% for rosacea and acne, cosmetic otc positioning at lower concentrations.

How It Works: Azelaic acid competitively inhibits tyrosinase cu²⁺ active site (ic₅₀ ~50 μm), inhibits 5-lox leukotriene synthesis for anti-inflammatory activity, disrupts dicarboxylate metabolism in c. acnes for antimicrobial activity, and normalises hyperactive keratinocyte proliferation.

Typically Found In: Brightening,anti-acne,anti-rosacea

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – alpha hydroxy acid (aha)

Secondary Functions: Brightening,collagen stimulation

Application Areas:

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20% (rx >15%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived or synthetic. ph must be ≤4.0 for aha activity.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Photosensitizing – mandatory spf use. start at low frequency.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – spf required

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations. eu: ≤10% leave-on at ph ≥3.5. mandatory spf advisory.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf

Avoid Combining With: Retinol in same step; multiple exfoliants simultaneously

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Azelaic acid is gras (derived from wheat/rye) and one of few cosmetic actives with concurrent fda rx and otc history providing extensive clinical safety evidence at multiple concentrations.

Last Verified: 2026-03-12

Primary Sources: Cosing database,azelex azelaic acid review