Common Name(s): Cocoyl pentapeptide-9,peptide-surfactant conjugate,dual cleansing+anti-aging active

CAS Number: N/a

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Cocoyl pentapeptide-9 simultaneously cleanses skin through the cocoyl chain's micelle-forming surfactant activity and delivers anti-aging signal peptide activity during and after washing — the peptide portion stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis in dermal fibroblasts while the surfactant portion removes surface impurities, providing active skin renewal with every cleansing application.

Why It's Used: Formulators choose cocoyl pentapeptide-9 to create premium anti-aging cleansers that provide measurable skin benefit beyond simple cleansing — a key differentiation opportunity in the prestige cleanser market where consumers increasingly expect actives in all steps of their routine. the cocoyl-peptide conjugate deposits substantively on skin during rinsing from amphiphile-surface adsorption below the critical micelle concentration, leaving an active peptide layer on the skin even after rinsing. this 'rinse-off actives' delivery mechanism allows cleansers to make credible anti-aging claims supported by peptide deposition data.

How It Works: Cocoyl pentapeptide-9 works through sequential and synergistic mechanisms: (1) surfactant cleansing — the n-cocoyl fatty acid chain (c12–c14) adopts the micelle-forming geometry of an n-acyl surfactant when dispersed in water, forming mixed micelles with other surfactants that encapsulate and solubilise sebum, make-up, and surface debris for rinsing; (2) peptide anti-aging — the signal peptide sequence (typically a collagen-mimetic or fibroblast-activating sequence) stimulates fibroblast growth factor receptors or tgf-β pathways to upregulate collagen i/iii/iv production; (3) substantive deposition — as rinse water dilutes the surfactant concentration below cmc, the amphiphilic cocoyl-peptide monomers partition from micelles to the negatively charged corneocyte surface from electrostatic and hydrophobic interactions, depositing the peptide on the skin where it provides post-wash biological activity independent of continued surfactant presence.

Typically Found In: Premium anti-aging cleansers,multi-active wash products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – signal peptide

Secondary Functions: Collagen stimulation,skin firming,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional - feedstock declaration required

Halal Status: Unverified - feedstock declaration required (plant, animal and petrochemical routes all exist)

Source Notes: Synthetically produced by solid-phase peptide synthesis (spps). may be palmitoylated for stability. [audit 2026-07-29 rev2: origin-dependent: the same inci exists in plant, animal and petrochemical versions and the name does not discriminate. determination requires shariah-panel sign-off.]

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Exceptional safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,retinol,vitamin c,niacinamide

Avoid Combining With: Avoid mixing with high-concentration ahas at same ph (may hydrolyze peptide bonds)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cocoyl peptide substantive deposition mechanism: above cmc, amphiphilic cocoyl-peptide molecules partition into mixed micelles (minimal surface contact). as formulation is diluted during rinsing, concentration falls below cmc and the monomer concentration increases. monomers with cocoyl chain partition to the air-water interface and skin surface from gibbs adsorption — the reduction in surface free energy from amphiphile adsorption at the hydrophobic surface provides thermodynamic driving force. at the skin surface, additional electrostatic interaction between the peptide's cationic residues and the negatively charged corneocyte surface (net negative at wash ph 5–7) enhances deposition efficiency — the combined hydrophobic + electrostatic driving forces providing substantive post-rinse peptide loading.

Last Verified: 2026-03-12

Primary Sources: Cosing database,cocoyl peptide surfactant anti-aging deposition review