Common Name(s): Kojic isopalmitate,kojic isopalmitate,lipophilic kojic acid ester,oil-phase brightening active
CAS Number: N/a
DESCRIPTION
What It Does: Delivers kojic acid brightening in oil-phase and anhydrous formulations where water-soluble kojic acid cannot be incorporated — skin esterases releasing free kojic acid for tyrosinase cu²⁺ chelation at the melanin synthesis site.
Why It's Used: Kojic isopalmitate enables brightening in oil-phase and anhydrous cosmetics — expanding kojic acid's formulation versatility beyond aqueous systems while providing improved sc penetration from the raised logp.
How It Works: Isopalmitate ester (logp ~5.8): sc lipid bilayer partitioning → deeper penetration versus free kojic acid (logp -2.2, surface-limited). skin isopalmitase/lipase → kojic isopalmitate → kojic acid + isopalmitic acid. free kojic acid: cu²⁺ chelation in tyrosinase active site (ic50 ~10 μm) → catecholase inhibition → dopa quinone reduction → melanin synthesis blockade.
Typically Found In: Brightening,anti-aging,oil-phase formulas
TECHNICAL DETAILS
Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant
Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging
Application Areas:
Facial Skincare
Body Care
Hair Care
Beard Care
Color Cosmetics (Makeup)
Dietary/Oral Supplements
Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%
SOURCING & ETHICS
Vegan Status: Yes
Halal Status: Yes
Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.
SKIN COMPATIBILITY
Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low
Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic
Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.
Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes
SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY
Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.
Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants
Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities
SCIENTIFIC NOTE
Kojic acid colour stability advantage: kojic isopalmitate has substantially better colour stability versus free kojic acid — the palmitate ester protection of the 4-oh group prevents rapid oxidative yellowing that limits free kojic acid formulation concentration.
Last Verified: 2026-03-22
Primary Sources: Cosing database,kojic isopalmitate lipophilic kojic acid brightening review