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Common Name(s): L-menthol,peppermint camphor,(-)-menthol
CAS Number: 89-78-1
DESCRIPTION
What It Does: Activates trpm8 cold thermoreceptors for intense cooling sensation and analgesic activity.
Why It's Used: The most potent cosmetic cooling agent โ direct trpm8 agonist providing cooling sensation without actual temperature reduction for refreshing and analgesic formulations.
How It Works: Potent trpm8 (menthol receptor/cold thermosensor) agonist โ activation at room temperature mimics cold sensation without actual cooling. anti-pruritic via trpm8 activation competing with itch c-fiber signaling. antimicrobial via membrane disruption.
Typically Found In: Cooling products,scalp treatments,oral care,pain relief,foot care,after-sun
TECHNICAL DETAILS
Primary Category: Active ingredient โ cooling sensory terpenoid
Secondary Functions: Redness reduction,anti-inflammatory,calming
Application Areas:
Facial Skincare
Body Care
Hair Care
Beard Care
Color Cosmetics (Makeup)
Dietary/Oral Supplements
Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%โ2%
SOURCING & ETHICS
Vegan Status: Conditional - supplier confirmation required
Halal Status: Unverified - supplier confirmation required
Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic. [audit 2026-07-29 rev2: status downgraded on audit. determination requires shariah-panel sign-off.]
SKIN COMPATIBILITY
Irritancy Rating: 2/5 โ low to moderate; potential sensitizer
Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 โ non-comedogenic
Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; ideal for reactive and sensitive skin.
Safe for Sensitive Skin: Avoid near eyes. use with caution at concentrations above 1% for sensitive skin.
SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY
Safety Profile: Eu max 4.5% (leave-on); regulations vary by application site. avoid on infants' face.
Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica
Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities
SCIENTIFIC NOTE
Menthol's exceptional cooling potency stems from its ec50 for trpm8 activation of approximately 10ฮผm (vs camphor's ec50 of ~5mm โ 500ร lower potency). this 500ร potency advantage explains why even tiny concentrations of menthol provide intense cooling, while much higher concentrations of camphor are required for equivalent sensation.
Last Verified: 2026-03-12
Primary Sources: Cosing database,mckemy et al. menthol trpm8 discovery,cir safety assessment