Common Name(s): Dhea/prasterone,endogenous adrenal steroid,hormonal anti-aging active
CAS Number: N/a
DESCRIPTION
What It Does: Replenishes age-depleted skin dhea, stimulates collagen synthesis through local estrogen and androgen receptor activation, improves skin barrier function and tewl, and normalises sebum production through androgenic activity in sebaceous glands.
Why It's Used: Dhea addresses the hormonal anti-aging mechanism that no peptide, retinoid, or botanical can replicate โ direct nuclear hormone receptor activation that drives the same gene expression changes that decline with the natural aging-related dhea depletion.
How It Works: Dhea is locally converted by skin 5ฮฑ-reductase and 3ฮฒ-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase to testosterone, estradiol, and dht depending on tissue. these sex steroids bind androgen receptors (ar) and estrogen receptors (erฮฑ, erฮฒ) in fibroblasts and keratinocytes โ col1a1 and hyaluronan synthase upregulation. skin is a complete steroidogenic tissue expressing all required conversion enzymes.
Typically Found In: Hormonal anti-aging,post-menopausal skin care
TECHNICAL DETAILS
Primary Category: Active ingredient โ antioxidant
Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging
Application Areas:
Facial Skincare
Body Care
Hair Care
Beard Care
Color Cosmetics (Makeup)
Dietary/Oral Supplements
Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%โ1%
SOURCING & ETHICS
Vegan Status: Conditional - supplier confirmation required
Halal Status: Unverified - supplier confirmation required
Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic. [audit 2026-07-29 rev2: status downgraded on audit. determination requires shariah-panel sign-off.]
SKIN COMPATIBILITY
Irritancy Rating: 1/5 โ very low
Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 โ non-comedogenic
Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.
Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes
SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY
Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.
Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants
Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities
SCIENTIFIC NOTE
Dhea regulatory status: classified as a cosmetic active in eu (not a hormone drug at topical concentrations); classified as a supplement in usa; regulated differently in various markets. formulators must verify regulatory classification in each target market as some jurisdictions consider dhea a drug substance.
Last Verified: 2026-03-12
Primary Sources: Cosing database,dhea prasterone skin hormonal anti-aging review