Common Name(s): Quaternium-90 montmorillonite,organoclay q-90,distearyldimonium modified clay

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Thickens oil-based formulas and helps keep ingredients suspended in anhydrous products.

Why It's Used: Similar to benzalkonium montmorillonite but using quaternium-90 (distearyldimonium chloride) as the organophilizing quat; provides oil-phase gelation in anhydrous systems.

How It Works: Distearyl quaternary ammonium (quaternium-90) replaces interlayer na by ion exchange, making clay organophilic; swells in organic solvents/oils forming viscous gel network.

Typically Found In: Anhydrous gels,color cosmetics,sunscreen bases,oil-based foundations,stick formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – viscosity controlling

Secondary Functions: Binding agent,suspension,texture modification

Application Areas:

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Montmorillonite clay (mineral origin); quaternium-90 synthetic; organoclay.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Generally well tolerated; organoclay in anhydrous applications.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile in anhydrous cosmetic use. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Waxes,silicones,mineral pigments,oil-phase emollients

Avoid Combining With: Not compatible with aqueous systems

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Quaternium-90 montmorillonite provides the same organoclay thickening mechanism as benzalkonium montmorillonite; the different quaternary ammonium (distearyl vs benzyl) affects swelling characteristics in different organic solvents.

Last Verified: Cosing database,inci dictionary,elementis/byk technical data

Primary Sources: 2026-03-27