Common Name(s): Retinyl oleate,retinyl oleate,retinyl oleate,fluid retinoid ester

CAS Number: N/a

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides retinol via oleate ester hydrolysis with superior skin penetration kinetics over retinyl palmitate due to the cis-double bond preventing crystal packing.

Why It's Used: Retinyl oleate is selected over retinyl palmitate for its oleic acid ester — the c18:1 cis-double bond maintains liquid state at skin temperature, preventing the crystallisation that can reduce palmitate bioavailability.

How It Works: Retinyl oleate → sc esterase hydrolysis (faster rate than palmitate) → retinol → rar activation. oleate cis geometry: faster sc diffusion kinetics than c16:0 palmitate.

Typically Found In: Anti-aging,fluid formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional - feedstock declaration required

Halal Status: Unverified - feedstock declaration required (plant, animal and petrochemical routes all exist)

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier. [audit 2026-07-29 rev2: origin-dependent: the same inci exists in plant, animal and petrochemical versions and the name does not discriminate. determination requires shariah-panel sign-off.]

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Retinyl oleate is recommended for o/w emulsions where palmitate's higher melting point causes formulation challenges.

Last Verified: 2026-03-22

Primary Sources: Cosing database,retinyl oleate anti-aging review