Back to Ingredient Dictionary
Common Name(s): Sorbitan sesquiisostearate,sorbitan 1.5-isostearate,span-type isostearate sesquiester
DESCRIPTION
What It Does: Helps oil and water form stable emulsions with a smooth, non-waxy feel.
Why It's Used: The branched isostearate chain prevents crystallization and provides a non-waxy skin feel; sesquiester degree gives hlb between sorbitan mono- and diester.
How It Works: Branched isostearate chain prevents wax crystallization common in stearate analogs; sesquiester (1.5 acid/sorbitan) gives hlb ~4โ5; suitable for w/o emulsification.
Typically Found In: Rich creams,w/o emulsions,body butters,anhydrous bases
TECHNICAL DETAILS
Primary Category: Functional ingredient โ emulsifier
Secondary Functions: Emollient,skin conditioning
Application Areas:
Facial Skincare
Body Care
Hair Care
Beard Care
Color Cosmetics (Makeup)
Dietary/Oral Supplements
Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%โ5%
SOURCING & ETHICS
Vegan Status: Conditional - feedstock declaration required
Halal Status: Unverified - feedstock declaration required (plant, animal and petrochemical routes all exist)
Source Notes: Isostearic acid synthetic; sorbitan from plant sorbitol. [audit 2026-07-29 rev2: origin-dependent: the same inci exists in plant, animal and petrochemical versions and the name does not discriminate. determination requires shariah-panel sign-off.]
SKIN COMPATIBILITY
Irritancy Rating: 1/5 โ very low
Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 โ low
Sensitivity Concerns: Generally well tolerated.
Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes
SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY
Safety Profile: Good safety profile. ewg score: 1.
Works Well With: Polysorbates,fatty alcohols,high-hlb emulsifiers,emollients
Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities
SCIENTIFIC NOTE
Sesquiesters of sorbitan with branched (isostearate) fatty acids provide non-crystallizing w/o emulsifiers; hlb between span 60 (hlb 4.7) and span 80 (hlb 4.3); branching prevents the waxy buildup of stearate analogs.
Last Verified: 2026-03-27
Primary Sources: Cosing database,inci dictionary