A-Gloei™ Maretinol Oil

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides alpha-hydroxy ceramide for complementary barrier repair alongside ceramide np and eop.

Why It's Used: Essential barrier ceramide trio component — ceramide ap's alpha-hydroxy fatty acid provides the specific lamellar body formation chemistry needed for complete barrier restoration with ceramide np and ceramide eop.

How It Works: N-(2-hydroxyfatty acid) phytosphingosine: 2-hydroxylation of fatty acid is critical for optimal packing of ceramide ap in lamellar lipid bilayers. the alpha-hydroxy group creates stronger intermolecular hydrogen bonding between ceramide ap molecules than non-hydroxylated ceramides. used in combination with ceramide np and ceramide eop for comprehensive barrier repair.

Typically Found In: Complete barrier repair formulas,triple ceramide systems,eczema treatment

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – alpha-hydroxy ceramide

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – plant-derived phytosphingosine available

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

The ceramide np + ceramide ap + ceramide eop triple combination mimics the natural ratio of ceramide classes in healthy stratum corneum (approximately 1:0.5:0.3 ratio). clinical studies comparing single ceramide vs triple ceramide barrier repair show significantly greater tewl reduction with triple ceramide combinations — the complementary molecular packing geometries of different ceramide classes creating a more complete lamellar bilayer than any single ceramide can provide.

Last Verified: Cosing database,elias & feingold barrier ceramide review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the most abundant natural skin ceramide for precise stratum corneum barrier lipid replacement.

Why It's Used: The primary skin ceramide — ceramide np's identity as the dominant stratum corneum ceramide fraction makes it the most physiologically relevant barrier lipid replacement for dry skin and eczema.

How It Works: N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine provides the exact molecular structure of the most abundant natural skin ceramide. integrates into stratum corneum lamellar lipid bilayers restoring barrier architecture. reduces tewl, improves corneometer moisture, restores barrier integrity. synergistic with cholesterol and fatty acids in barrier restoration.

Typically Found In: Barrier repair moisturisers,eczema care,dry skin treatment

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – phytosphingosine ceramide

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – from wheat or phytosphingosine fermentation; plant-derived available

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ceramide np's structural identity to natural skin ceramide 3 (the dominant sc ceramide at approximately 18% of total sc ceramide fraction) means it integrates into the stratum corneum's lamellar bilayer structure with perfect molecular recognition. no other moisturising ingredient can achieve this level of structural identity to the natural barrier component it replaces — providing barrier repair rather than simply occlusive surface coating.

Last Verified: Cosing database,elias skin barrier ceramide review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Retinol accelerates skin cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, fades hyperpigmentation, and helps normalize pore size.

Why It's Used: It is the most evidence-backed anti-aging ingredient available without a prescription. it provides comprehensive skin renewal benefits that no other single cosmetic ingredient can match.

How It Works: Retinol is converted in the skin to retinoic acid, which binds to retinoid receptors in cell nuclei. this activates gene expression changes that accelerate cell turnover, boost collagen synthesis, and inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (collagen-degrading enzymes).

Typically Found In: Night creams,serums,eye creams,targeted treatment products,anti-aging formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – vitamin a derivative

Secondary Functions: Exfoliating,anti-acne,brightening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.025%–1% (otc); start at low concentrations and build up slowly

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – can be animal-derived (fish liver, egg yolk) or synthetic; verify source

Halal Status: Conditional – verify source; synthetic retinol is halal

Source Notes: Cosmetic retinol is predominantly synthetically manufactured. some natural sources include fish liver oils. synthetic is preferred for purity and sustainability.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 3/5 – moderate; can cause dryness, peeling, redness, especially during adjustment period (retinization)

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic; actually helps clear pores

Sensitivity Concerns: Retinization period: 2–6 weeks of potential dryness, flaking, and sensitivity. photosensitizing – must use spf when using retinol. avoid during pregnancy.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – start at 0.025%, buffer with moisturizer, use every 2–3 nights initially

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe for general use at otc concentrations. not recommended during pregnancy. avoid with waxing. use spf daily. ewg hazard score: varies by concentration.

Works Well With: Niacinamide (soothes irritation),peptides,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf (mandatory)

Avoid Combining With: Benzoyl peroxide (may inactivate retinol),ahas/bhas (when new to retinol – overexfoliation risk),vitamin c (use at different times)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Retinol is approximately 20 times less potent than prescription tretinoin (retinoic acid) but significantly better tolerated. the conversion rate of retinol to retinoic acid in skin is the rate-limiting step in its efficacy.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,journal of investigative dermatology,kligman et al. studies

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection from reactive oxygen species, reduces inflammatory cytokine production in skin, and conditions skin through the plant's phytochemical complex.

Why It's Used: Natural origin narrative, traditional use heritage, and multi-functional phytochemical profile supporting concurrent skin care claims from one ingredient.

How It Works: Polyphenols, terpenoids, and alkaloids scavenge ros via h• donation, inhibit nf-kb or cox-2 inflammatory pathways, and interact with skin surface proteins for conditioning.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care,natural products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites evolved as photoprotectants and antimicrobials — mechanisms directly applicable to cosmetic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in human skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sclerocarya birrea seed oil botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Tocopherol neutralizes free radicals that damage skin cells, protects cell membranes from lipid peroxidation, moisturizes, and helps maintain a healthy skin barrier.

Why It's Used: It is used as both a skin-active antioxidant and a formulation stabilizer (preventing oxidation of other ingredients). it has decades of safety and efficacy evidence and works synergistically with vitamin c.

How It Works: As a chain-breaking antioxidant, tocopherol donates hydrogen atoms to interrupt lipid peroxidation chain reactions. it is regenerated by vitamin c (ascorbic acid) in the vitamins c+e antioxidant cycle, creating a more durable antioxidant defense.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,oils,sunscreens,eye creams,lip balms,antioxidant formulations,haircare products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant/vitamin e

Secondary Functions: Emollient,formulation stabilizer,barrier support

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1% (typical: 0.1–0.5% as active; higher as formulation antioxidant)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (soybean, sunflower, wheat germ oil) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – plant-derived or synthetic

Source Notes: Natural d-alpha-tocopherol is derived from plant oils and is more bioactive. synthetic dl-alpha-tocopherol is less expensive. tocopherol acetate (tocopheryl acetate) is the more stable ester form.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; rare contact sensitivity reported

Comedogenicity Rating: 2/5 – mildly comedogenic at higher concentrations; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: A small percentage of people report contact sensitization to tocopherol, particularly with leave-on products. comedogenicity risk is higher in oil-heavy formulations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Generally yes; perform patch test if history of vitamin e sensitivity

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Very safe; widely used. ewg hazard score: 2–3 (depending on concentration). no significant systemic concerns from topical use.

Works Well With: Ascorbic acid (vitamin c) – synergistic antioxidant pair,ferulic acid – stabilizes and boosts both c and e,ceramides,spf,retinol

Avoid Combining With: Very high concentrations of benzoyl peroxide may oxidize tocopherol; potential comedogenicity concerns in acne-prone skin when in heavy oil bases

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

The combination of vitamin c, vitamin e, and ferulic acid (the 'ce ferulic' formulation) provides fourfold photoprotection against uv-induced free radical damage – a synergy documented in landmark research by pinnell et al.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,pinnell et al. (2005) journal of investigative dermatology,efsa panel on food additives

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12