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DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides combined gentle cleansing and wheat protein conditioning from n-acyl hydrolysed protein.

Why It's Used: Conditioning surfactant — n-acyl hydrolysed wheat protein delivers both surfactant cleansing and protein conditioning simultaneously, with substantive protein deposition on hair or skin during rinse providing post-wash conditioning feel.

How It Works: Hydrolysed wheat protein + acyl chloride → n-acyl protein sodium salt. dual function: surfactant + conditioner. protein deposition: substantive post-rinse. film-forming. gentle. hair: cuticle protein film. skin: moisture retention.

Typically Found In: Conditioning shampoos,protein-rich cleansers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

N-acyl protein surfactant substantive deposition: the hydrolysed wheat protein chain (mw 500-5000 da depending on hydrolysis degree) deposits on hair or skin during rinsing from the opposing charge gradient of the anionic acyl head and the positively charged amino acid residues in the protein chain. substantive deposition provides post-rinse conditioning from protein film formation on the surface — a cleansing and conditioning dual function from one ingredient.

Last Verified: Cosing database,n-acyl hydrolyzed wheat protein surfactant review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides combined uva and uvb filtration in a single chemical uv filter molecule.

Why It's Used: Combined uva+uvb filter historically used for broad-spectrum coverage in a single ingredient, now increasingly restricted.

How It Works: Benzophenone chromophore absorbs uvb (305nm) and uva-ii (326nm) via two separate n→π* transitions. water-soluble allows aqueous phase formulation. single filter providing partial broad-spectrum coverage.

Typically Found In: Sunscreens (being phased out in many markets)

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – chemical uva/uvb filter

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Up to 6% (eu), 6% (us fda)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu max 6%. coral reef/aquatic toxicity — banned hawaii, palau, some us states. potential endocrine activity at high systemic exposure. ewg score: 7. use declining due to regulatory pressure.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Benzophenone-3's declining use reflects evolving understanding of environmental and endocrine impacts: discovered in coral bleaching studies, its restriction in hawaii (2018) sparked a global trend in marine-safe sunscreen formulations that is reshaping the industry away from bp-3 toward mineral filters and marine-safer organic alternatives.

Last Verified: Cosing database,fda uv filter otc monograph,hawaii bp-3 restriction law

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides combined uva and uvb filtration in a single chemical uv filter molecule.

Why It's Used: Combined uva+uvb filter historically used for broad-spectrum coverage in a single ingredient, now increasingly restricted.

How It Works: Benzophenone chromophore absorbs uvb (305nm) and uva-ii (326nm) via two separate n→π* transitions. water-soluble allows aqueous phase formulation. single filter providing partial broad-spectrum coverage.

Typically Found In: Sunscreens (being phased out in many markets)

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – chemical uva/uvb filter

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Up to 6% (eu), 6% (us fda)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu max 6%. coral reef/aquatic toxicity — banned hawaii, palau, some us states. potential endocrine activity at high systemic exposure. ewg score: 7. use declining due to regulatory pressure.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Benzophenone-3's declining use reflects evolving understanding of environmental and endocrine impacts: discovered in coral bleaching studies, its restriction in hawaii (2018) sparked a global trend in marine-safe sunscreen formulations that is reshaping the industry away from bp-3 toward mineral filters and marine-safer organic alternatives.

Last Verified: Cosing database,fda uv filter otc monograph,hawaii bp-3 restriction law

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides a dry, weightless application vehicle that evaporates cleanly leaving actives and non-volatile silicones deposited on skin — eliminating the residual heaviness of conventional liquid carrier solvents.

Why It's Used: Cyclosiloxanes are the unique volatile silicone solvents that dissolve non-volatile silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone), organic uv filters, and lipophilic actives, providing the sensory-superior dry-touch application experience in premium formulations.

How It Works: Cyclosiloxane vapour pressure (d5 cyclopentasiloxane ~0.3 mmhg at 25°c) provides clean evaporation at body temperature. the cyclic ring structure provides lower boiling point than equivalent linear dimethicone, enabling faster evaporation while the ring conformation maintains the silicone's low surface energy for smooth application.

Typically Found In: Primers,antiperspirants,sunscreens

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cyclopentasiloxane (d5) and cyclohexasiloxane (d6) are under eu regulatory review for potential environmental persistence (pbt assessment) — formulators should monitor eu regulation 2018/35 implementation for restrictions in wash-off products.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu cyclosiloxane regulatory review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides a dry, weightless application vehicle that evaporates cleanly leaving actives and non-volatile silicones deposited on skin — eliminating the residual heaviness of conventional liquid carrier solvents.

Why It's Used: Cyclosiloxanes are the unique volatile silicone solvents that dissolve non-volatile silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone), organic uv filters, and lipophilic actives, providing the sensory-superior dry-touch application experience in premium formulations.

How It Works: Cyclosiloxane vapour pressure (d5 cyclopentasiloxane ~0.3 mmhg at 25°c) provides clean evaporation at body temperature. the cyclic ring structure provides lower boiling point than equivalent linear dimethicone, enabling faster evaporation while the ring conformation maintains the silicone's low surface energy for smooth application.

Typically Found In: Primers,antiperspirants,sunscreens

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cyclopentasiloxane (d5) and cyclohexasiloxane (d6) are under eu regulatory review for potential environmental persistence (pbt assessment) — formulators should monitor eu regulation 2018/35 implementation for restrictions in wash-off products.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu cyclosiloxane regulatory review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Isobutane has an established safety profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,isobutane technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the defining fresh citrus fragrance note alongside solvent and antimicrobial properties.

Why It's Used: The citrus industry's primary fragrance compound and the most abundant terpene in essential oils – limonene provides the clean, universally appealing fresh citrus scent character.

How It Works: D-limonene activates trpv1 mildly at high concentrations. antimicrobial via membrane disruption. solvent for oils and lipophilic compounds. cleaning via emulsification of lipid soils.

Typically Found In: Citrus-scented products,cleaning products,fragrance compounds

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – cyclic monoterpene

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from citrus peel essential oils

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. oxidises to sensitising compounds (limonene hydroperoxides) on air exposure – use with antioxidant stabilisers. ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Limonene's sensitisation risk arises not from limonene itself but from its autooxidation products (limonene-1,2-epoxide and limonene hydroperoxides) formed on air exposure. fresh limonene has low sensitisation potential, but air-oxidised limonene's hydroperoxide products are potent skin sensitisers. this explains why oxidation-stabilised formulations (with bht or other antioxidants) are required to manage limonene safety.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards,bråred christensson et al. limonene oxidation study

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the most common natural floral-citrus fragrance note with additional anti-inflammatory properties.

Why It's Used: The most abundant fragrance terpene in nature – linalool forms the primary scent character of lavender, responsible for lavender's documented aromatherapy calming effects.

How It Works: Monoterpene alcohol activates gaba-a receptors for anti-anxiety activity (same receptor as benzodiazepines). inhibits glutamate-induced excitotoxicity. antimicrobial via membrane disruption. anti-inflammatory via nf-kb inhibition.

Typically Found In: Virtually all fragranced cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – tertiary terpene alcohol

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from lavender, coriander, bergamot

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen on label when >0.001% (leave-on) or >0.01% (rinse-off). ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Linalool's gaba-a receptor activation provides a pharmacological basis for lavender aromatherapy's documented anxiolytic effects. the same receptor modulation used by benzodiazepine drugs (such as diazepam) is activated by inhaled linalool vapor, providing receptor-mediated calming without the tolerance and dependence associated with pharmaceutical gaba-a modulators.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards,elisabetsky et al. linalool gaba study

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Stabilises o/w emulsions by reducing interfacial tension, solubilises oils and fragrances in aqueous systems, and wets oil-phase components for improved formulation homogeneity.

Why It's Used: Peg emulsifiers are selected for their precise hlb, broad ph stability (unlike soap emulsifiers that lose function at acidic ph), and compatibility with both anionic and cationic co-ingredients in the formulation system.

How It Works: Peg chain length determines hlb: longer peg = higher hlb = more hydrophilic = better o/w emulsification. at the o/w interface, the peg chain extends into the water phase forming a hydrated steric barrier that prevents droplet coalescence. nonionic character provides ph-independent function across the full cosmetic ph range.

Typically Found In: Emulsions,fragrance solubilisation

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Mixed peg emulsifier systems (e.g., peg-100 stearate + glyceryl stearate) form more cohesive interfacial films than single emulsifiers — the geometric complementarity of the co-emulsifier pair providing better mechanical emulsion stability than either component alone.

Last Verified: Cosing database,peg-12 dimethicone peg emulsifier review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Polymethylsilsesquioxane has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,polymethylsilsesquioxane technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12