BIODERMA Anti-Itching Balm-Atoderm Intensive Baume

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

1-2-hexanediol has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,1-2-hexanediol technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Specialty active ingredient; check individual sourcing for vegan status.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection, soothing anti-inflammatory effects, and skin-conditioning benefits through plant-derived polyphenols and phytochemicals.

Why It's Used: Plant extracts concentrate bioactive phytochemicals evolved for environmental protection — uv, microbial, and oxidative stressors — that translate to skin benefits.

How It Works: Polyphenols (flavonoids, phenolic acids) inhibit nf-κb-mediated inflammatory signaling, scavenge reactive oxygen species through electron donation, and chelate pro-oxidant metal ions to reduce oxidative skin damage.

Typically Found In: Serums,toners,moisturizers,masks,essences

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Botanical extracts

Secondary Functions: Antioxidant,anti-inflammatory

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,ceramides

Avoid Combining With: Strong oxidizing agents

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites (flavonoids, terpenes, phenolic acids) are biosynthesized as defense compounds against uv, herbivores, and pathogens. their anti-inflammatory activity typically derives from competitive inhibition of cox-2 and 5-lox enzymes (ic50 1–50 µm), while antioxidant activity involves single electron transfer (set) and hydrogen atom transfer (hat) mechanisms with structure-dependent rate constants.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; phytochemical and ethnobotanical literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides documented cosmetic activity from behenyl alcohol.

Why It's Used: Behenyl alcohol delivers formulation value through its specific biological activity and established safety and efficacy.

How It Works: Source: behenyl alcohol. mechanism: documented in cosmetic literature. safety: cosing-reviewed. standard cosmetic use concentrations.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations,active products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Behenyl alcohol provides cosmetic activity through its characteristic mechanism. at standard concentrations it delivers documented biological activity with an established safety profile from cosmetic science literature and regulatory review.

Last Verified: Cosing database,behenyl alcohol technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the most potent antimicrobial diol activity alongside skin feel enhancement.

Why It's Used: Premium antimicrobial diol — caprylyl glycol's c8 chain provides the strongest membrane-disrupting antimicrobial activity of common diol preservative boosters with unique skin-feel enhancement.

How It Works: C8 1,2-diol: c8 chain length provides strongest bacterial and fungal membrane disruption of common diols. emollient skin feel improvement from c8 chain length interaction with skin surface. active at lower concentrations than shorter-chain diols. synergistic with ethylhexylglycerin.

Typically Found In: Natural preservation systems,skin feel enhancement

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – antimicrobial humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Caprylyl glycol's antimicrobial potency follows the chain-length dependent membrane activity of fatty acids: c8 is the optimal chain length for membrane disruption (same as caprylic acid's antimicrobial optimum), providing maximum membrane integration without the skin sensitisation associated with longer chain lengths. this chain-length pharmacophore relationship is why c8 > c6 > c5 in diol antimicrobial potency despite identical head group chemistry.

Last Verified: Cosing database,schülke sensiva sc 50 technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides transparent gel textures and thickening at very low concentrations via ph-responsive swelling.

Why It's Used: The most widely used gel thickener – provides crystal-clear, stable gels at concentrations as low as 0.1-0.5% with ph-controlled viscosity.

How It Works: Highly crosslinked polyacrylic acid remains tightly coiled at acidic ph. neutralization with naoh or triethanolamine ionizes carboxylic groups causing electrostatic repulsion that unfolds and swells the polymer coils, dramatically increasing viscosity. concentration-dependent thickening.

Typically Found In: Gels,serums,emulsions,sunscreens

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – polyacrylic acid thickener

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Carbomer's ph-responsive swelling mechanism provides an elegant formulation control tool: a neutralized gel can be liquefied by ph reduction (adding acid) and re-thickened by reneutralization. this reversible rheology control allows two-phase products that mix on application without the need for mechanical emulsification.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides alpha-hydroxy ceramide for complementary barrier repair alongside ceramide np and eop.

Why It's Used: Essential barrier ceramide trio component — ceramide ap's alpha-hydroxy fatty acid provides the specific lamellar body formation chemistry needed for complete barrier restoration with ceramide np and ceramide eop.

How It Works: N-(2-hydroxyfatty acid) phytosphingosine: 2-hydroxylation of fatty acid is critical for optimal packing of ceramide ap in lamellar lipid bilayers. the alpha-hydroxy group creates stronger intermolecular hydrogen bonding between ceramide ap molecules than non-hydroxylated ceramides. used in combination with ceramide np and ceramide eop for comprehensive barrier repair.

Typically Found In: Complete barrier repair formulas,triple ceramide systems,eczema treatment

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – alpha-hydroxy ceramide

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – plant-derived phytosphingosine available

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

The ceramide np + ceramide ap + ceramide eop triple combination mimics the natural ratio of ceramide classes in healthy stratum corneum (approximately 1:0.5:0.3 ratio). clinical studies comparing single ceramide vs triple ceramide barrier repair show significantly greater tewl reduction with triple ceramide combinations — the complementary molecular packing geometries of different ceramide classes creating a more complete lamellar bilayer than any single ceramide can provide.

Last Verified: Cosing database,elias & feingold barrier ceramide review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the essential acylceramide scaffold for stratum corneum lamellar lipid organisation and barrier architecture.

Why It's Used: The architectural ceramide — ceramide eop's covalent corneocyte envelope binding is unique among ceramides and essential for organising the lamellar lipid matrix of the stratum corneum barrier.

How It Works: Omega-hydroxy ceramide esterified with linoleic acid at the omega-end. omega-hydroxyl group covalently bonds to involucrin/envoplakin proteins of corneocyte envelope via ester bond. this covalent anchor organises the lamellar lipid bilayers around each corneocyte. linoleate deficiency impairs this covalent anchoring — the biochemical basis of linoleic acid deficiency skin disease.

Typically Found In: Complete barrier repair systems,eczema treatment,omega-ceramide products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – linoleate acylceramide

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–0.5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – plant-derived linoleate available

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ceramide eop's covalent corneocyte envelope binding is the only covalent interaction in the stratum corneum lipid structure — all other lamellar lipids interact via non-covalent van der waals and hydrogen bonds. this unique covalent anchoring of eop to the protein envelope provides the mechanical scaffold from which the entire lamellar lipid architecture is organised, making ceramide eop architecturally irreplaceable in barrier function.

Last Verified: Cosing database,holleran et al. ceramide eop review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the most abundant natural skin ceramide for precise stratum corneum barrier lipid replacement.

Why It's Used: The primary skin ceramide — ceramide np's identity as the dominant stratum corneum ceramide fraction makes it the most physiologically relevant barrier lipid replacement for dry skin and eczema.

How It Works: N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine provides the exact molecular structure of the most abundant natural skin ceramide. integrates into stratum corneum lamellar lipid bilayers restoring barrier architecture. reduces tewl, improves corneometer moisture, restores barrier integrity. synergistic with cholesterol and fatty acids in barrier restoration.

Typically Found In: Barrier repair moisturisers,eczema care,dry skin treatment

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – phytosphingosine ceramide

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – from wheat or phytosphingosine fermentation; plant-derived available

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ceramide np's structural identity to natural skin ceramide 3 (the dominant sc ceramide at approximately 18% of total sc ceramide fraction) means it integrates into the stratum corneum's lamellar bilayer structure with perfect molecular recognition. no other moisturising ingredient can achieve this level of structural identity to the natural barrier component it replaces — providing barrier repair rather than simply occlusive surface coating.

Last Verified: Cosing database,elias skin barrier ceramide review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides essential barrier sterol function as one of three critical stratum corneum lipid components.

Why It's Used: Essential component of complete barrier repair formulations – the stratum corneum barrier requires ceramides:cholesterol:fatty acids in approximately 1:1:1 molar ratio for complete barrier restoration.

How It Works: Integrates between ceramide headgroups in lamellar body structures, providing fluidity and flexibility to the otherwise rigid ceramide-dominated lipid matrix. controls lamellar body phase behavior for functional barrier.

Typically Found In: Barrier repair moisturizers,eczema treatments,dry skin formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – barrier sterol

Secondary Functions: Lamellar body structure,barrier sterol

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – animal-derived (lanolin) or plant-derived phytosterol analogs; verify

Halal Status: Conditional – verify source

Source Notes: Traditionally from lanolin (wool grease). plant-derived cholesterol alternatives include phytosterols, though these show slightly different barrier integration. verify for vegan/halal.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Endogenous molecule; excellent tolerability.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Exceptional safety profile. natural skin component. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Other ceramides,cholesterol,free fatty acids,hyaluronic acid,niacinamide

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Elias demonstrated that barrier repair requires all three lipid classes (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids) in approximately equimolar ratios. formulations providing only ceramides without cholesterol and fatty acids show significantly inferior barrier restoration vs complete triple-lipid combinations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,elias et al. barrier lipid ratio study,loden barrier repair review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12