Biolage Strength Recovery Deep Treatment Mask for Damaged Hair

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides amino group-mediated preferential adsorption to damaged hair for targeted conditioning.

Why It's Used: Premium hair conditioning silicone – amino groups provide substantive adsorption to hair far exceeding pdms, with automatic targeting to the most damaged areas requiring conditioning.

How It Works: Amino (nh2) groups on silicone chain provide cationic character at normal ph, electrostatic adsorption to anionic hair surface. higher charge density at damaged sites increases adsorption where conditioning is most needed. si-o-si backbone provides permanent conditioning film with heat protection.

Typically Found In: Intensive conditioners,anti-frizz products,damage repair conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – amino-functional silicone

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Amodimethicone's amino group-driven substantivity to damaged hair is dramatically greater than non-functionalized pdms. studies show amodimethicone deposits 50-200× more mass on bleach-damaged hair vs virgin hair, providing an automatic 'damage detection' conditioning system that directs the most conditioning to the hair areas that need it most.

Last Verified: Cosing database,robbins hair science,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Conditions skin, attracts moisture, supports wound healing, and improves microcirculation via no synthesis.

Why It's Used: Multi-functional amino acid for skin hydration, conditioning, and wound healing in peptide and nmf formulations.

How It Works: Guanidinium group binds water (humectant). substrate for nitric oxide synthase (enos) producing nitric oxide that vasodilates capillaries improving skin nutrition. stimulates fibroblast proliferation for wound healing.

Typically Found In: Anti-aging serums,wound healing products,nmf moisturizers,scalp treatments

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – amino acid

Secondary Functions: Wound healing,microcirculation,nmf component

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived or synthetic. natural skin component.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; endogenous skin molecule.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. natural skin nmf component. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,peptides,other amino acids

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Arginine is a conditionally essential amino acid in wound healing where local demand exceeds synthesis capacity. topical arginine provides the nos substrate locally for no-mediated vasodilation and immune cell function in healing tissue.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,witte & barbul arginine wound healing review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the characteristic sweet hay-vanilla warmth central to fougère fragrance compositions.

Why It's Used: The fougère fragrance family-defining compound – coumarin is the essential warm-sweet note in lavender-oakmoss-coumarin fougère compositions that define men's cologne classics.

How It Works: Bicyclic lactone provides sweet hay-vanilla scent from its conjugated carbonyl system. good skin absorption for lasting fragrance. low volatility provides fixative properties.

Typically Found In: Fougère fragrances,men's cologne,warm oriental fragrances

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – lactone

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic; natural from dipteryx odorata

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. ifra guidelines restrict due to hepatotoxicity at high oral doses (not from topical use).

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Coumarin's natural source (tonka beans, dipteryx odorata) led to its historical use in food flavouring until toxicological studies revealed hepatotoxicity at high oral doses. the restriction of coumarin from food flavouring (eu and fda) drove fragrance reformulation in some cosmetic categories, though topical exposure levels from cosmetics are orders of magnitude below hepatotoxic doses.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides fresh rose-geranium floral scent with antimicrobial activity.

Why It's Used: The rose fragrance terpene – geraniol defines the fresh, sweet rose-geranium note found in more than 60 essential oils and is essential for recreating natural floral fragrance profiles.

How It Works: Monoterpene alcohol inhibits bacterial membrane integrity for antimicrobial activity. activates trpv1 for anti-nociception. inhibits nf-kb for anti-inflammatory activity. antioxidant via allylic radical scavenging.

Typically Found In: Rose-scented products,floral fragrances,natural cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – acyclic monoterpene alcohol

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from rose, geranium, palmarosa oils

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Geraniol's isomers (geraniol, nerol, citronellol) provide subtly different scent characters despite identical molecular formulae (c10h18o): geraniol provides the sweet, fresh rose note while its z-isomer nerol has a more delicate, neroli-like character. these isomeric scent differences arise from different spatial presentation of the hydroxyl and double bond groups to the olfactory receptor – demonstrating the extraordinary structural sensitivity of olfactory perception.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the defining fresh citrus fragrance note alongside solvent and antimicrobial properties.

Why It's Used: The citrus industry's primary fragrance compound and the most abundant terpene in essential oils – limonene provides the clean, universally appealing fresh citrus scent character.

How It Works: D-limonene activates trpv1 mildly at high concentrations. antimicrobial via membrane disruption. solvent for oils and lipophilic compounds. cleaning via emulsification of lipid soils.

Typically Found In: Citrus-scented products,cleaning products,fragrance compounds

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – cyclic monoterpene

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from citrus peel essential oils

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. oxidises to sensitising compounds (limonene hydroperoxides) on air exposure – use with antioxidant stabilisers. ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Limonene's sensitisation risk arises not from limonene itself but from its autooxidation products (limonene-1,2-epoxide and limonene hydroperoxides) formed on air exposure. fresh limonene has low sensitisation potential, but air-oxidised limonene's hydroperoxide products are potent skin sensitisers. this explains why oxidation-stabilised formulations (with bht or other antioxidants) are required to manage limonene safety.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards,bråred christensson et al. limonene oxidation study

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the most common natural floral-citrus fragrance note with additional anti-inflammatory properties.

Why It's Used: The most abundant fragrance terpene in nature – linalool forms the primary scent character of lavender, responsible for lavender's documented aromatherapy calming effects.

How It Works: Monoterpene alcohol activates gaba-a receptors for anti-anxiety activity (same receptor as benzodiazepines). inhibits glutamate-induced excitotoxicity. antimicrobial via membrane disruption. anti-inflammatory via nf-kb inhibition.

Typically Found In: Virtually all fragranced cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – tertiary terpene alcohol

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from lavender, coriander, bergamot

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen on label when >0.001% (leave-on) or >0.01% (rinse-off). ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Linalool's gaba-a receptor activation provides a pharmacological basis for lavender aromatherapy's documented anxiolytic effects. the same receptor modulation used by benzodiazepine drugs (such as diazepam) is activated by inhaled linalool vapor, providing receptor-mediated calming without the tolerance and dependence associated with pharmaceutical gaba-a modulators.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards,elisabetsky et al. linalool gaba study

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Prevents microbial contamination and spoilage in cosmetic formulations.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic preservative – eu-permitted up to 1%, effective against virtually all cosmetically relevant microorganisms, and excellent tolerability.

How It Works: Phenol ring provides broad antimicrobial activity via disruption of bacterial and fungal cell membranes and inhibition of enzymatic activity. effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeasts (candida), and molds (aspergillus). activity ph range: 3-9.

Typically Found In: All cosmetic formulations as primary preservative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – broad-spectrum preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1% (eu max 1%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation max 1%. sccs assessed as safe at ≤1%. avoid use around eyes in baby products per some country regulations. ewg score: 4.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Phenoxyethanol's widespread adoption as the primary cosmetic preservative followed the phaseout of parabens from many formulations in the 2000s-2010s. despite having a comparable or better safety profile to parabens, it is often cited in 'free-from' formulations – a consumer perception issue rather than a scientific safety concern.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sccs opinion on phenoxyethanol,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides moisture retention as a key nmf component and supports barrier phospholipid synthesis.

Why It's Used: Core nmf amino acid humectant in skin conditioning formulations.

How It Works: Hydroxyl group binds water for humectant activity. phosphoserine forms phospholipid head groups for barrier membrane synthesis. nmf component contributing to stratum corneum natural moisture retention.

Typically Found In: Nmf moisturizers,skin conditioning products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – amino acid

Secondary Functions: Nmf component,barrier phospholipid support

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived or synthetic. natural skin component.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; endogenous skin molecule.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. natural skin nmf component. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,peptides,other amino acids

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Serine is among the highest-concentration amino acids in the stratum corneum nmf (approximately 4% of total nmf dry weight), making it a physiologically relevant humectant ingredient for barrier-mimetic formulations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides endogenous-skin-identical emolliency with exceptional stability and skin compatibility.

Why It's Used: The most skin-compatible emollient – chemically identical to human sebum squalene component with outstanding tolerability across all skin types.

How It Works: Fully saturated hydrocarbon with zero oxidation sites provides exceptional stability unlike squalene's 6 double bonds. integrates into stratum corneum lipid bilayers with near-perfect biocompatibility. provides antioxidant protection to formulation via radical quenching.

Typically Found In: Facial oils,serums,non-comedogenic moisturizers,luxury body care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Maximum biocompatibility,antioxidant stabilizer,non-comedogenic

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – plant-derived (sugarcane, olive) preferred; shark liver-derived being phased out

Halal Status: Yes – plant-derived

Source Notes: Sustainable plant-derived squalane from sugarcane fermentation (amyris) or olive oil fractionation is preferred over shark liver-derived. chemically identical regardless of source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Squalene constitutes approximately 12-15% of human sebum – the highest proportion of any skin lipid. topical squalane (stable, hydrogenated form) replenishes this abundant endogenous skin lipid. the complete absence of oxidizable double bonds (unlike squalene's 6 double bonds) eliminates the pro-oxidant concerns of natural squalene oxidation.

Last Verified: Cosing database,huang et al. squalane review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12