C+C VITAMIN OIL-FREE GEL

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides stable vitamin c activity combining formulation stability with good skin delivery.

Why It's Used: Best balance of stability and bioavailability among vitamin c derivatives — 3-o-ea provides stability superior to ascorbic acid with better bioavailability than large ester forms like ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

How It Works: C3 ether position protection prevents oxidation at the most vulnerable c2-c3 enediol. more lipophilic than ascorbic acid for improved skin penetration. ether bond resistant to hydrolysis in formulation but cleaved by skin esterases for active ascorbic acid release in viable epidermis.

Typically Found In: Stable brightening serums,anti-aging vitamin c products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – ethyl ascorbic acid

Secondary Functions: Tyrosinase inhibitor,collagen cofactor

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetically produced vitamin c derivative.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Tocopherol,ferulic acid,niacinamide,spf

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid's ether bond at c3 provides fundamentally different stability vs ester-bonded vitamin c derivatives (ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate). ether bonds are far more resistant to chemical hydrolysis than ester bonds — 3-o-ea is more hydrolysis-stable than c6 ester derivatives while still providing bioactive release via ether cleavage in skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Serves as the skin's natural starting material for vitamin d3 production upon uvb exposure.

Why It's Used: Formulations supporting the skin's endogenous vitamin d synthesis pathway, particularly relevant when spf blocks uvb.

How It Works: Absorbs uvb (290–315 nm) and undergoes photolysis at the b-ring to form previtamin d3, which thermally isomerizes to cholecalciferol at body temperature.

Typically Found In: Specialty skin health formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – provitamin d3

Secondary Functions: Provitamin d3,endogenous synthesis support

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Research/specialty concentrations

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – lanolin or synthetic

Halal Status: Conditional – verify source

Source Notes: Lanolin-derived or lichen-derived (vegan). verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating at cosmetic concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes at cosmetic concentrations

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at cosmetic concentrations. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,retinoids,anti-inflammatory actives

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Approximately 90% of body vitamin d3 comes from uvb-induced photosynthesis of 7-dehydrocholesterol in skin. high-spf sunscreen reduces this synthesis by 95–99%.

Last Verified: Cosing database,holick vitamin d cutaneous synthesis review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Ascorbic acid neutralizes free radicals, stimulates collagen production, inhibits melanin synthesis for a brighter complexion, and supports skin repair.

Why It's Used: It is used because it offers comprehensive antioxidant and brightening benefits supported by extensive clinical evidence. it is the most bioavailable form of vitamin c for topical application.

How It Works: As an antioxidant, it donates electrons to neutralize reactive oxygen species. it is an essential cofactor for the hydroxylation of proline and lysine in collagen synthesis. it inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, reducing hyperpigmentation.

Typically Found In: Vitamin c serums,brightening moisturizers,antioxidant formulations,spf products,eye creams

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – vitamin c

Secondary Functions: Collagen booster,tyrosinase inhibitor,ph adjuster

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 5%–20% (effective range: 10–20%; ph must be below 3.5 for activity)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetically produced or corn/plant-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced by reichstein synthesis or guangxi fermentation process from glucose. some plant-derived versions exist.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate; low ph formulations can cause initial tingling or stinging, especially at concentrations above 15%

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Acidic ph can irritate sensitive or compromised skin barriers. highly unstable – oxidizes rapidly when exposed to air, light, and heat (turns orange/brown). use in the morning under spf.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – start at lower concentrations (5–10%). stabilized derivative forms (vitamin c derivatives) may be better tolerated.

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Very safe; well-studied. key concern is formulation stability, not safety. ewg hazard score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin e (tocopherol) – synergistic antioxidant effect,ferulic acid – stabilizing and boosting,spf,hyaluronic acid,niacinamide (use at different times if concentrations are high)

Avoid Combining With: Retinol (use at separate times – ph incompatibility),benzoyl peroxide (oxidizes vitamin c),ahas/bhas (cumulative irritation risk)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

L-ascorbic acid is the only form of vitamin c that is proven bioactive in skin at the molecular level. its instability (rapid oxidation) has driven development of numerous stable derivatives including ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,pinnell et al. studies,journal of the american academy of dermatology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection, soothing anti-inflammatory effects, and skin-conditioning benefits through plant-derived polyphenols and phytochemicals.

Why It's Used: Plant extracts concentrate bioactive phytochemicals evolved for environmental protection — uv, microbial, and oxidative stressors — that translate to skin benefits.

How It Works: Polyphenols (flavonoids, phenolic acids) inhibit nf-κb-mediated inflammatory signaling, scavenge reactive oxygen species through electron donation, and chelate pro-oxidant metal ions to reduce oxidative skin damage.

Typically Found In: Serums,toners,moisturizers,masks,essences

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Botanical extracts

Secondary Functions: Antioxidant,anti-inflammatory

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1899-12-31 00:00:00 -0800

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,ceramides

Avoid Combining With: Strong oxidizing agents

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites (flavonoids, terpenes, phenolic acids) are biosynthesized as defense compounds against uv, herbivores, and pathogens. their anti-inflammatory activity typically derives from competitive inhibition of cox-2 and 5-lox enzymes (ic50 1–50 µm), while antioxidant activity involves single electron transfer (set) and hydrogen atom transfer (hat) mechanisms with structure-dependent rate constants.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; phytochemical and ethnobotanical literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Deposits conditioning protein film on skin and hair through electrostatic and h-bonding surface adsorption, provides amino acid humectancy, reduces friction and improves combability in hair, and temporarily smooths skin surface texture.

Why It's Used: Hydrolysed proteins provide dual-weight-dependent function: high-mw fractions (>5000 da) adsorb on surfaces for film-forming conditioning; low-mw fractions (<500 da) penetrate sc for deeper conditioning and metabolic amino acid delivery.

How It Works: Enzymatic hydrolysis yields a distribution of peptide fragments 100–10,000 da. positively charged (basic) amino acid residues (lysine, arginine) in the peptide fragments electrostatically bind the negatively charged hair cuticle surface; hydrophobic residues provide lipophilic anchoring. the resulting protein film reduces tewl and surface friction while providing amino acid nutrients.

Typically Found In: Hair conditioners,skin serums,protein formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Optimal hydrolysis degree for hair conditioning uses mw 1,000–5,000 da fragments — large enough for stable cuticle adsorption but small enough to penetrate damaged cuticle cracks and access internal cortex protein repair sites.

Last Verified: Cosing database,hydrolyzed collagen protein conditioning review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection, soothing anti-inflammatory effects, and skin-conditioning benefits through plant-derived polyphenols and phytochemicals.

Why It's Used: Plant extracts concentrate bioactive phytochemicals evolved for environmental protection — uv, microbial, and oxidative stressors — that translate to skin benefits.

How It Works: Polyphenols (flavonoids, phenolic acids) inhibit nf-κb-mediated inflammatory signaling, scavenge reactive oxygen species through electron donation, and chelate pro-oxidant metal ions to reduce oxidative skin damage.

Typically Found In: Lotions,creams,serums,masks

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Minerals

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Mineral-derived ingredient; no biological origin.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Plant extracts,peptides,vitamins

Avoid Combining With: Strong chelating agents (reduce mineral availability)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites (flavonoids, terpenes, phenolic acids) are biosynthesized as defense compounds against uv, herbivores, and pathogens. their anti-inflammatory activity typically derives from competitive inhibition of cox-2 and 5-lox enzymes (ic50 1–50 µm), while antioxidant activity involves single electron transfer (set) and hydrogen atom transfer (hat) mechanisms with structure-dependent rate constants.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant and solvent functionality from sustainable corn-based fermentation.

Why It's Used: Bio-based propylene glycol alternative from renewable corn — propanediol provides equivalent functionality to propylene glycol with sustainable renewable feedstock and superior skin feel.

How It Works: Two oh groups provide humectant water binding. excellent solvent for fragrances, actives, and preservatives. mild antimicrobial from diol structure for preservative system boosting. renew corn fermentation origin (dupont zemea process). better skin feel than propylene glycol — less sticky.

Typically Found In: Virtually all cosmetic categories as pg alternative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from corn sugar fermentation

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Propanediol's dupont tate & lyle bio products 'zemea' process ferments corn sugar to 1,3-propanediol using engineered e. coli — one of the first commercially viable bio-fermentation routes to a cosmetic diol previously made only from petroleum. the renewable route produces chemically identical 1,3-propanediol while reducing carbon footprint by approximately 40% vs petrochemical synthesis.

Last Verified: Cosing database,dupont tate & lyle zemea technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Silica has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,silica technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12