Charlotte Tilbury Magic Hydration Revival Cleanser

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, promotes skin cell renewal, and provides mild keratolytic exfoliation.

Why It's Used: Gold standard multi-function soothing active – one of the most widely used cosmetic ingredients across all product types for its exceptional tolerability and clinically proven multi-action skin conditioning.

How It Works: Promotes keratinocyte proliferation and fibroblast migration for wound healing. mild keratolytic activity by disrupting corneocyte binding. anti-irritant via direct protein binding and anti-inflammatory cytokine reduction. humectant activity via hydroxyl groups.

Typically Found In: Post-procedure products,sensitive skin formulas,wound care,anti-acne treatments,baby products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – soothing / anti-inflammatory

Secondary Functions: Wound healing,keratolytic,anti-irritant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or comfrey-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Exceptionally well-tolerated; suitable for all skin types including baby and compromised skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – particularly recommended for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Allantoin's keratinocyte proliferation stimulation occurs via receptor-mediated signaling (possibly machr activation) rather than non-specific irritation-driven proliferation, making it a true wound-healing stimulant rather than a pro-inflammatory proliferative signal.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,araújo et al. allantoin review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides natural fruit sugar humectant moisture retention with gentle soothing properties.

Why It's Used: Natural-origin humectant for clean beauty formulations with appealing fruit-derived provenance.

How It Works: Five hydroxyl groups provide strong water binding. slightly higher hygroscopicity than glucose due to fructose ring configuration. soothing activity via mild anti-inflammatory activity of fruit sugar derivatives.

Typically Found In: Natural moisturizers,clean beauty hydrators

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – fruit sugar humectant

Secondary Functions: Natural sugar humectant,soothing

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from fruit (plant sources)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Fructose's ring form (furanose, 5-membered) provides all five hydroxyl groups in a more hydrophilic spatial arrangement than glucose (pyranose, 6-membered), contributing to fructose's slightly superior hygroscopicity over glucose – explaining its preference as a cosmetic humectant among monosaccharides.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glucose has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,glucose technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Maltose has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,maltose technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Prevents microbial contamination and spoilage in cosmetic formulations.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic preservative – eu-permitted up to 1%, effective against virtually all cosmetically relevant microorganisms, and excellent tolerability.

How It Works: Phenol ring provides broad antimicrobial activity via disruption of bacterial and fungal cell membranes and inhibition of enzymatic activity. effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeasts (candida), and molds (aspergillus). activity ph range: 3-9.

Typically Found In: All cosmetic formulations as primary preservative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – broad-spectrum preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1% (eu max 1%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation max 1%. sccs assessed as safe at ≤1%. avoid use around eyes in baby products per some country regulations. ewg score: 4.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Phenoxyethanol's widespread adoption as the primary cosmetic preservative followed the phaseout of parabens from many formulations in the 2000s-2010s. despite having a comparable or better safety profile to parabens, it is often cited in 'free-from' formulations – a consumer perception issue rather than a scientific safety concern.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sccs opinion on phenoxyethanol,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Tocopherol neutralizes free radicals that damage skin cells, protects cell membranes from lipid peroxidation, moisturizes, and helps maintain a healthy skin barrier.

Why It's Used: It is used as both a skin-active antioxidant and a formulation stabilizer (preventing oxidation of other ingredients). it has decades of safety and efficacy evidence and works synergistically with vitamin c.

How It Works: As a chain-breaking antioxidant, tocopherol donates hydrogen atoms to interrupt lipid peroxidation chain reactions. it is regenerated by vitamin c (ascorbic acid) in the vitamins c+e antioxidant cycle, creating a more durable antioxidant defense.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,oils,sunscreens,eye creams,lip balms,antioxidant formulations,haircare products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant/vitamin e

Secondary Functions: Emollient,formulation stabilizer,barrier support

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1% (typical: 0.1–0.5% as active; higher as formulation antioxidant)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (soybean, sunflower, wheat germ oil) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – plant-derived or synthetic

Source Notes: Natural d-alpha-tocopherol is derived from plant oils and is more bioactive. synthetic dl-alpha-tocopherol is less expensive. tocopherol acetate (tocopheryl acetate) is the more stable ester form.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; rare contact sensitivity reported

Comedogenicity Rating: 2/5 – mildly comedogenic at higher concentrations; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: A small percentage of people report contact sensitization to tocopherol, particularly with leave-on products. comedogenicity risk is higher in oil-heavy formulations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Generally yes; perform patch test if history of vitamin e sensitivity

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Very safe; widely used. ewg hazard score: 2–3 (depending on concentration). no significant systemic concerns from topical use.

Works Well With: Ascorbic acid (vitamin c) – synergistic antioxidant pair,ferulic acid – stabilizes and boosts both c and e,ceramides,spf,retinol

Avoid Combining With: Very high concentrations of benzoyl peroxide may oxidize tocopherol; potential comedogenicity concerns in acne-prone skin when in heavy oil bases

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

The combination of vitamin c, vitamin e, and ferulic acid (the 'ce ferulic' formulation) provides fourfold photoprotection against uv-induced free radical damage – a synergy documented in landmark research by pinnell et al.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,pinnell et al. (2005) journal of investigative dermatology,efsa panel on food additives

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides superior moisture retention under dehydrating conditions – uniquely protective in extreme environments.

Why It's Used: Premium humectant for formulations targeting dehydration, environmental stress protection, and dry/mature skin hydration.

How It Works: Forms a protective glassy matrix that replaces water molecules around proteins and cell membranes during dehydration stress, preventing protein denaturation and membrane damage. stronger water binding than sucrose or glucose.

Typically Found In: Premium moisturizers,protective barrier formulas,anti-aging products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – anhydrobiotic sugar / humectant

Secondary Functions: Stress protection,barrier support,cryoprotectant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – fermentation-derived or from yeast

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Produced by yeast fermentation or enzymatic conversion of starch. available as anhydrous or dihydrate form.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; exceptionally well-tolerated; endogenous to many organisms.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Trehalose's unique ability to form an amorphous glassy matrix during dehydration (replacing water molecules) explains the survival of tardigrades and resurrection plants. this property translates to exceptional skin protection under environmental dehydration stress.

Last Verified: Cosing database,crowe et al. trehalose anhydrobiosis review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: At 2–10%: provides deep humectancy, softens sc, and improves other active penetration. at 10–40%: keratolytically dissolves corneocyte protein bonds for intensive exfoliation of hyperkeratotic skin (calluses, eczema plaques, psoriasis).

Why It's Used: Urea combines two otherwise separate ingredient classes (humectant and keratolytic) in one molecule, with formulator-controlled function through concentration selection — uniquely versatile for multiple skin condition applications.

How It Works: Urea's carbonyl and amine groups form h-bonds with water (humectancy) and with corneocyte keratin (penetration). at high concentrations, urea disrupts keratin hydrogen bonds (chaotropic activity) solubilising the sc protein matrix — concentration determines whether humectant or keratolytic effect predominates.

Typically Found In: Eczema,hyperkeratosis,callus care,moisturising

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–40%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Urea is the most concentrated natural nmf component — healthy sc contains 28 mg/g urea versus 2 mg/g in xerotic (dry) skin. topical urea application directly replenishes the physiological nmf deficit that drives dry skin conditions.

Last Verified: Cosing database,urea nmf dual function humectant keratolytic review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12