CHI Wake + Fake Soothing Dry Shampoo

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides acemannan-based wound healing and comprehensive moisturising skin conditioning from the quintessential healing plant.

Why It's Used: The most universally recognised natural healing plant — aloe vera's acemannan polysaccharides, vitamins, and enzymes provide a comprehensive wound healing and soothing profile with thousands of years of documented use.

How It Works: Acemannan (poly-mannose) activates dectin-1 for wound healing immune stimulation. gibberellin promotes fibroblast growth. salicylic acid derivative provides anti-inflammatory. vitamins c and e provide antioxidant. glucomannan provides humectant.

Typically Found In: After-sun products,wound healing,moisturisers,virtually all skin care categories

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – aloe vera gel

Secondary Functions: Redness reduction,anti-inflammatory,calming

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–99%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from aloe barbadensis leaf

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; ideal for reactive and sensitive skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – particularly recommended for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Aloe vera's clinical evidence for sunburn relief is among the best for any botanical wound healing ingredient. multiple rcts demonstrate that aloe vera gel reduces healing time of first and second degree burns and sunburns, attributed primarily to acemannan's immunomodulatory wound healing activity and the anti-inflammatory salicylate derivatives providing prostaglandin inhibition.

Last Verified: Cosing database,surjushe et al. aloe vera skin review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides soft, lasting rose-floral fragrance note.

Why It's Used: Essential rose fragrance monoterpene for lasting smooth floral notes in high-quality perfumery and cosmetic fragrances.

How It Works: Allylic alcohol monoterpene provides fixative property in fragrance blends. good skin substantivity for lasting scent. softer, rounder rose note vs geraniol's fresher character. natural in rose otto at 18-34%.

Typically Found In: Rose perfumes,floral fragrances,luxury skincare

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – monoterpene alcohol

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from rose, geranium, citronella oils

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Citronellol's r-enantiomer (natural) vs s-enantiomer (synthetic) provide meaningfully different scent character – a remarkable demonstration of chiral scent discrimination by olfactory receptors. the (r) form provides the characteristic rose note while the (s) form has a distinctly different, less pleasant character. this enantiomeric scent difference means that the biological handedness of naturally-sourced vs racemic synthetic citronellol produces perceptibly different fragrance quality.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the characteristic sweet hay-vanilla warmth central to fougère fragrance compositions.

Why It's Used: The fougère fragrance family-defining compound – coumarin is the essential warm-sweet note in lavender-oakmoss-coumarin fougère compositions that define men's cologne classics.

How It Works: Bicyclic lactone provides sweet hay-vanilla scent from its conjugated carbonyl system. good skin absorption for lasting fragrance. low volatility provides fixative properties.

Typically Found In: Fougère fragrances,men's cologne,warm oriental fragrances

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – lactone

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic; natural from dipteryx odorata

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. ifra guidelines restrict due to hepatotoxicity at high oral doses (not from topical use).

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Coumarin's natural source (tonka beans, dipteryx odorata) led to its historical use in food flavouring until toxicological studies revealed hepatotoxicity at high oral doses. the restriction of coumarin from food flavouring (eu and fda) drove fragrance reformulation in some cosmetic categories, though topical exposure levels from cosmetics are orders of magnitude below hepatotoxic doses.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides quick-dry volatile hydrocarbon carrier for colour cosmetics with complete evaporation and no residue.

Why It's Used: Primary colour cosmetic carrier — isododecane's volatility and excellent pigment dispersion combined with complete evaporation make it the standard carrier for long-wear foundations and colour cosmetics.

How It Works: Volatile isoparaffin (bp 177-188°c) evaporates from skin within 10-20 minutes. excellent pigment dispersion for colour cosmetics. spreading enhancement from low surface tension. no residue after evaporation provides clean, long-wear finish.

Typically Found In: Long-wear foundations,colour cosmetics,primers,sunscreens

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – volatile hydrocarbon

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 5%–60%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Isododecane's position as the preferred colour cosmetic carrier arises from a unique combination of properties that no other solvent provides simultaneously: volatility (complete evaporation for clean finish), pigment dispersion (superior to water or alcohols), compatibility with silicones (unlike many solvents), and skin safety (inert hydrocarbon without irritation potential of polar solvents).

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the most common natural floral-citrus fragrance note with additional anti-inflammatory properties.

Why It's Used: The most abundant fragrance terpene in nature – linalool forms the primary scent character of lavender, responsible for lavender's documented aromatherapy calming effects.

How It Works: Monoterpene alcohol activates gaba-a receptors for anti-anxiety activity (same receptor as benzodiazepines). inhibits glutamate-induced excitotoxicity. antimicrobial via membrane disruption. anti-inflammatory via nf-kb inhibition.

Typically Found In: Virtually all fragranced cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – tertiary terpene alcohol

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from lavender, coriander, bergamot

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen on label when >0.001% (leave-on) or >0.01% (rinse-off). ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Linalool's gaba-a receptor activation provides a pharmacological basis for lavender aromatherapy's documented anxiolytic effects. the same receptor modulation used by benzodiazepine drugs (such as diazepam) is activated by inhaled linalool vapor, providing receptor-mediated calming without the tolerance and dependence associated with pharmaceutical gaba-a modulators.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards,elisabetsky et al. linalool gaba study

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Activates trpm8 cold thermoreceptors for intense cooling sensation and analgesic activity.

Why It's Used: The most potent cosmetic cooling agent – direct trpm8 agonist providing cooling sensation without actual temperature reduction for refreshing and analgesic formulations.

How It Works: Potent trpm8 (menthol receptor/cold thermosensor) agonist – activation at room temperature mimics cold sensation without actual cooling. anti-pruritic via trpm8 activation competing with itch c-fiber signaling. antimicrobial via membrane disruption.

Typically Found In: Cooling products,scalp treatments,oral care,pain relief,foot care,after-sun

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cooling sensory terpenoid

Secondary Functions: Redness reduction,anti-inflammatory,calming

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from mentha piperita or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate; potential sensitizer

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; ideal for reactive and sensitive skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Avoid near eyes. use with caution at concentrations above 1% for sensitive skin.

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu max 4.5% (leave-on); regulations vary by application site. avoid on infants' face.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Menthol's exceptional cooling potency stems from its ec50 for trpm8 activation of approximately 10μm (vs camphor's ec50 of ~5mm – 500× lower potency). this 500× potency advantage explains why even tiny concentrations of menthol provide intense cooling, while much higher concentrations of camphor are required for equivalent sensation.

Last Verified: Cosing database,mckemy et al. menthol trpm8 discovery,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Panthenol deeply moisturizes skin and hair, soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, strengthens the skin barrier, and improves hair elasticity and shine.

Why It's Used: It is used because it is exceptionally versatile, working in both skin and hair formulations. it is gentle enough for sensitive and post-procedure skin, and converts to the active vitamin b5 within the skin.

How It Works: Panthenol penetrates skin and hair, where it is oxidized to pantothenic acid (vitamin b5), a coenzyme a precursor essential to metabolism. in skin, it acts as a humectant and stimulates fibroblast proliferation. in hair, it coats the shaft, improving manageability.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,toners,after-sun products,wound healing products,shampoos,conditioners,hair masks,beard care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – provitamin b5

Secondary Functions: Anti-inflammatory,wound healing,hair conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5% (typical: 1–3%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetically produced

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially synthesized. both d- and dl-forms used in cosmetics; d-panthenol is the biologically active isomer but dl-panthenol is less expensive and widely used.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; one of the most soothing ingredients in cosmetics

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare contact allergy; considered one of the safest cosmetic ingredients. suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – ideal for sensitive, reactive, and post-procedure skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Exceptionally safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or systemic toxicity. safe during pregnancy.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,allantoin,niacinamide,centella asiatica,retinol (reduces irritation),glycerin

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Panthenol has demonstrated wound-healing properties in clinical studies, stimulating fibroblast proliferation and migration. its dual humectant and anti-inflammatory action makes it particularly effective in barrier-repair formulations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ebner et al. (2002) skin pharmacology and applied skin physiology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection, soothing anti-inflammatory effects, and skin-conditioning benefits through plant-derived polyphenols and phytochemicals.

Why It's Used: Plant extracts concentrate bioactive phytochemicals evolved for environmental protection — uv, microbial, and oxidative stressors — that translate to skin benefits.

How It Works: Polyphenols (flavonoids, phenolic acids) inhibit nf-κb-mediated inflammatory signaling, scavenge reactive oxygen species through electron donation, and chelate pro-oxidant metal ions to reduce oxidative skin damage.

Typically Found In: Serums,toners,moisturizers,masks,essences

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Botanical extracts

Secondary Functions: Antioxidant,anti-inflammatory

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1899-12-31 00:00:00 -0800

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,ceramides

Avoid Combining With: Strong oxidizing agents

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites (flavonoids, terpenes, phenolic acids) are biosynthesized as defense compounds against uv, herbivores, and pathogens. their anti-inflammatory activity typically derives from competitive inhibition of cox-2 and 5-lox enzymes (ic50 1–50 µm), while antioxidant activity involves single electron transfer (set) and hydrogen atom transfer (hat) mechanisms with structure-dependent rate constants.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; phytochemical and ethnobotanical literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Prevents microbial contamination and spoilage in cosmetic formulations.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic preservative – eu-permitted up to 1%, effective against virtually all cosmetically relevant microorganisms, and excellent tolerability.

How It Works: Phenol ring provides broad antimicrobial activity via disruption of bacterial and fungal cell membranes and inhibition of enzymatic activity. effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeasts (candida), and molds (aspergillus). activity ph range: 3-9.

Typically Found In: All cosmetic formulations as primary preservative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – broad-spectrum preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1% (eu max 1%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation max 1%. sccs assessed as safe at ≤1%. avoid use around eyes in baby products per some country regulations. ewg score: 4.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Phenoxyethanol's widespread adoption as the primary cosmetic preservative followed the phaseout of parabens from many formulations in the 2000s-2010s. despite having a comparable or better safety profile to parabens, it is often cited in 'free-from' formulations – a consumer perception issue rather than a scientific safety concern.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sccs opinion on phenoxyethanol,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the universal solvent and vehicle for water-soluble actives and the continuous phase of all o/w emulsions.

Why It's Used: The most essential cosmetic ingredient — aqua (water) is listed first on virtually all water-containing cosmetic inci labels as the highest-concentration ingredient, serving as the foundation of the global cosmetics industry.

How It Works: Acts as solvent for all water-soluble ingredients (glycols, amino acids, water-soluble actives). forms the continuous external phase of o/w emulsions (lotions, creams, serums). provides aqueous environment for enzymatic and chemical reactions between actives. ph adjustment medium.

Typically Found In: Virtually all cosmetic products — the most universal cosmetic ingredient globally

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – water

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Varies widely — up to 95% in some toners and serums

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – water (deionised/purified)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Cosmetic-grade water is purified (deionised, distilled, or ro filtered) to prevent mineral content interference with formulation stability. european pharmacopoeial water (aqua purificata ph. eur.) is the quality standard for pharmaceutical and high-end cosmetic formulations.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – non-irritant

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Water's position as the first inci ingredient on most cosmetic labels reflects the regulatory requirement to list ingredients in descending concentration order — meaning water is the most abundant ingredient in the majority of cosmetic products. the fundamental role of water as the universal cosmetic solvent and vehicle makes it simultaneously the most important cosmetic ingredient and the one that requires the most sophisticated formulation chemistry to control — every emulsifier, thickener, preservative, and ph adjuster exists primarily to manage water's interaction with other ingredients in formulation.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu cosmetics regulation 1223/2009 inci requirements,ph. eur. aqua purificata monograph

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12