Clinique Moisture Surge SPF 25 Sheer Hydrator(Moisturiser + Sunscreen)

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Serves as the skin's natural starting material for vitamin d3 production upon uvb exposure.

Why It's Used: Formulations supporting the skin's endogenous vitamin d synthesis pathway, particularly relevant when spf blocks uvb.

How It Works: Absorbs uvb (290–315 nm) and undergoes photolysis at the b-ring to form previtamin d3, which thermally isomerizes to cholecalciferol at body temperature.

Typically Found In: Specialty skin health formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – provitamin d3

Secondary Functions: Provitamin d3,endogenous synthesis support

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Research/specialty concentrations

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – lanolin or synthetic

Halal Status: Conditional – verify source

Source Notes: Lanolin-derived or lichen-derived (vegan). verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating at cosmetic concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes at cosmetic concentrations

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at cosmetic concentrations. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,retinoids,anti-inflammatory actives

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Approximately 90% of body vitamin d3 comes from uvb-induced photosynthesis of 7-dehydrocholesterol in skin. high-spf sunscreen reduces this synthesis by 95–99%.

Last Verified: Cosing database,holick vitamin d cutaneous synthesis review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Specialty active ingredient; check individual sourcing for vegan status.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Specialty active ingredient; check individual sourcing for vegan status.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides versatile acrylic film formation and thickening across broad ph range.

Why It's Used: Versatile workhorse polymer for film formation and thickening across diverse cosmetic product types from acidic aha serums to alkaline cleansers.

How It Works: Copolymer of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid esters. thickens via polymer chain entanglement and electrostatic repulsion. film formation from chain entanglement on water evaporation. broad ph stability from balanced acid/neutral monomer composition.

Typically Found In: Serums,lotions,sunscreens — versatile across formulation types

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – acrylic film former

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Acrylates copolymers' broad ph thickening stability (vs carbomer's ph-sensitive thickening, requiring neutralisation for viscosity) enables thickening of acidic aha serums (ph 3-4) without neutralisation — maintaining the low ph required for aha efficacy while providing viscosity control. this acid-stable thickening is impossible with conventional carbomers.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant free radical scavenging from polyphenol h-atom donation, anti-inflammatory activity from nf-kb/cox pathway inhibition, and multi-active skin conditioning.

Why It's Used: Natural extracts support concurrent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and conditioning skin care claims with authentic botanical heritage and traditional use backing.

How It Works: Polyphenol catechol groups donate h-atoms to ros quenching radical chain reactions (dpph-type scavenging rate constants 10^6-10^9 m^-1 s^-1). terpenoids inhibit ikb kinase blocking nf-kb nuclear translocation. flavonoids compete with arachidonic acid at cox-1/cox-2 active sites reducing prostaglandin synthesis.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites evolved under uv and pathogen selection pressure — the same photoprotective and antimicrobial chemistry directly translates to cosmetic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory claims in human skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,aloe barbadensis leaf polysaccharid botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Specialty active ingredient; check individual sourcing for vegan status.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Absorbs uv radiation at specific wavelengths (uva 320–400 nm, uvb 290–320 nm) and dissipates photon energy as heat rather than skin-damaging photochemical reactions.

Why It's Used: Organic uv filters are chosen for their high molar extinction coefficient, specific spectral coverage, and formulation compatibility — individual filters are combined to provide broad-spectrum coverage across uva+uvb.

How It Works: Uv photon absorption by the aromatic chromophore π-system excites the molecule from s₀ ground state to s₁ excited state. rapid internal conversion or photoisomerisation dissipates energy as vibrational heat before it can initiate skin photodamage.

Typically Found In: Sunscreens,photoprotective products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Check local sunscreen regulations

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Organic uv filters require photostabilisation (by avobenzone-octocrylene pairing, or triazine stabilisers) as some absorbers degrade on uv exposure — formulator must verify photostability of the chosen filter combination.

Last Verified: Cosing database,butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane organic uv filter review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant hydration and active ingredient solubilization with excellent skin feel.

Why It's Used: Preferred glycol humectant in premium and k-beauty formulations for superior skin feel vs propylene glycol with equivalent functionality.

How It Works: Two hydroxyl groups at 1,3-positions provide water binding and solvent activity. better tolerated than propylene glycol with minimal sensitization risk. 4-carbon backbone provides slightly greater hydrophobic character enabling dissolution of less polar actives vs pg.

Typically Found In: Toners,essences,serums,k-beauty formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – glycol humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

K-beauty's preference for butylene glycol over propylene glycol is driven by two factors: bg's superior skin feel (less tacky than pg's higher viscosity) and its lower sensitization potential (1,3-bg has better spatial distribution of hydroxyl groups that reduces protein interaction vs pg's 1,2-position oh groups).

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Butyloctyl salicylate has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,butyloctyl salicylate technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Stimulates lipolysis in adipocytes by inhibiting phosphodiesterase (preventing camp breakdown), reduces eye puffiness through vasoconstriction of periorbital capillaries, and provides antioxidant dna repair stimulation for photoprotective benefit.

Why It's Used: The only cosmetic active with a well-defined mechanism for anti-cellulite claims — phosphodiesterase inhibition elevating adipocyte camp is the documented biochemical pathway, providing mechanism-based efficacy substantiation superior to most slimming actives.

How It Works: Caffeine inhibits phosphodiesterase (pde3, pde4) preventing camp hydrolysis → elevated camp activates protein kinase a → phosphorylates hormone-sensitive lipase → lipolysis of triglycerides in adipocytes. for eye puffiness: caffeine's adenosine receptor antagonism reduces prostaglandin-mediated capillary dilation in periorbital tissue, reducing fluid accumulation.

Typically Found In: Anti-cellulite,eye creams,antioxidant products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Caffeine has one of the highest sc penetration rates of any cosmetic active (logp -0.07, mw 194 da) — the combination of small size and moderate logp providing excellent aqueous solubility with sufficient sc lipid partitioning for effective transdermal delivery to adipose tissue.

Last Verified: Cosing database,caffeine pde inhibitor anti-cellulite lipolysis review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12