Dot & Key Cica Calming Mattifying Sunscreen Niacinamide SPF 50+ PA++++ For Oily Acne Prone & Sensitive Skin Light Gel Cream

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides combined uva and uvb filtration in a single chemical uv filter molecule.

Why It's Used: Combined uva+uvb filter historically used for broad-spectrum coverage in a single ingredient, now increasingly restricted.

How It Works: Benzophenone chromophore absorbs uvb (305nm) and uva-ii (326nm) via two separate n→π* transitions. water-soluble allows aqueous phase formulation. single filter providing partial broad-spectrum coverage.

Typically Found In: Sunscreens (being phased out in many markets)

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – chemical uva/uvb filter

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Up to 6% (eu), 6% (us fda)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu max 6%. coral reef/aquatic toxicity — banned hawaii, palau, some us states. potential endocrine activity at high systemic exposure. ewg score: 7. use declining due to regulatory pressure.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Benzophenone-3's declining use reflects evolving understanding of environmental and endocrine impacts: discovered in coral bleaching studies, its restriction in hawaii (2018) sparked a global trend in marine-safe sunscreen formulations that is reshaping the industry away from bp-3 toward mineral filters and marine-safer organic alternatives.

Last Verified: Cosing database,fda uv filter otc monograph,hawaii bp-3 restriction law

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Reduces skin inflammation, soothes irritation, promotes wound healing, and enhances penetration of co-formulated actives.

Why It's Used: Premium natural soothing active with combined anti-inflammatory, wound healing, and penetration-enhancing activity – clinically validated across sensitive, reactive, and irritated skin types.

How It Works: Inhibits nf-kb pathway reducing pro-inflammatory cytokines il-1β, il-6, tnf-α. enhances stratum corneum lipid fluidity increasing penetration of co-delivered actives. antimicrobial against s. aureus and c. albicans. promotes keratinocyte migration for wound healing.

Typically Found In: Sensitive skin products,post-procedure formulations,anti-irritant formulas,wound healing

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – soothing / anti-inflammatory

Secondary Functions: Anti-inflammatory,penetration enhancement,antimicrobial

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from candeia tree (vanillosmopsis erythropappa) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Natural (-)-alpha-bisabolol from brazilian candeia tree is more sustainable and potent than chamomile-derived bisabolol. synthetic (±)-bisabolol is racemic with slightly lower anti-inflammatory potency.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; ideal for reactive and sensitive skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – particularly recommended for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Bisabolol's dual function as both an anti-inflammatory and a penetration enhancer is synergistic – by reducing the inflammatory response that increases barrier tightness while simultaneously fluidizing stratum corneum lipids, it provides enhanced delivery of co-formulated actives in the very conditions where delivery is most needed.

Last Verified: Cosing database,piazza et al. bisabolol anti-inflammatory study,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides a dry, weightless application vehicle that evaporates cleanly leaving actives and non-volatile silicones deposited on skin — eliminating the residual heaviness of conventional liquid carrier solvents.

Why It's Used: Cyclosiloxanes are the unique volatile silicone solvents that dissolve non-volatile silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone), organic uv filters, and lipophilic actives, providing the sensory-superior dry-touch application experience in premium formulations.

How It Works: Cyclosiloxane vapour pressure (d5 cyclopentasiloxane ~0.3 mmhg at 25°c) provides clean evaporation at body temperature. the cyclic ring structure provides lower boiling point than equivalent linear dimethicone, enabling faster evaporation while the ring conformation maintains the silicone's low surface energy for smooth application.

Typically Found In: Primers,antiperspirants,sunscreens

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cyclopentasiloxane (d5) and cyclohexasiloxane (d6) are under eu regulatory review for potential environmental persistence (pbt assessment) — formulators should monitor eu regulation 2018/35 implementation for restrictions in wash-off products.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu cyclosiloxane regulatory review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides a dry, weightless application vehicle that evaporates cleanly leaving actives and non-volatile silicones deposited on skin — eliminating the residual heaviness of conventional liquid carrier solvents.

Why It's Used: Cyclosiloxanes are the unique volatile silicone solvents that dissolve non-volatile silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone), organic uv filters, and lipophilic actives, providing the sensory-superior dry-touch application experience in premium formulations.

How It Works: Cyclosiloxane vapour pressure (d5 cyclopentasiloxane ~0.3 mmhg at 25°c) provides clean evaporation at body temperature. the cyclic ring structure provides lower boiling point than equivalent linear dimethicone, enabling faster evaporation while the ring conformation maintains the silicone's low surface energy for smooth application.

Typically Found In: Primers,antiperspirants,sunscreens

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cyclopentasiloxane (d5) and cyclohexasiloxane (d6) are under eu regulatory review for potential environmental persistence (pbt assessment) — formulators should monitor eu regulation 2018/35 implementation for restrictions in wash-off products.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu cyclosiloxane regulatory review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides silicone-characteristic silky feel and skin protection with adjustable viscosity.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic silicone – sets the gold standard for silky application feel, spreadability, and skin protection in virtually all skin care categories.

How It Works: Polydimethylsiloxane chain flexibility provides extremely low surface tension and high spreadability. inert si-o backbone provides chemical stability and excellent skin tolerance. occlusive film formation reduces tewl. higher viscosity grades provide more intense conditioning.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,foundations,primers,sunscreens – nearly universal

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – polydimethylsiloxane

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Dimethicone's exceptional silky feel arises from its very low intermolecular attractive forces (weak van der waals forces due to non-polar methyl groups) that allow silicone chains to slide freely over skin. the coefficient of kinetic friction for pdms against skin (~0.04) is among the lowest of any cosmetic material – explaining why even small amounts transform product feel.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antimicrobial skin conditioning with deodorant activity and preservation system enhancement.

Why It's Used: Multifunctional clean beauty preservation active — ethylhexylglycerin provides antimicrobial, deodorant, and skin conditioning in a single ingredient accepted in most natural cosmetic certification schemes.

How It Works: Glycerol ether provides antimicrobial via bacterial membrane phospholipid disruption. deodorant activity via reduction of underarm lipase enzyme activity (similar mechanism to triethyl citrate). skin conditioning from glycerol humectant component. synergistic with phenoxyethanol and diols.

Typically Found In: Natural preservation systems,deodorants,skin conditioning products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – antimicrobial glycerol ether

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–0.5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ethylhexylglycerin's deodorant mechanism is pharmacologically identical to triethyl citrate: both inhibit skin surface microbial lipase enzymes that convert odourless triglycerides to odorous free fatty acids. the glycerol ether structure of ethylhexylglycerin, combined with the 2-ethylhexyl chain, provides lipase inhibition similar to ester-based lipase inhibitors from a different chemical class.

Last Verified: Cosing database,schülke sensiva sc 10 technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Attracts and retains moisture in the sc, improves skin barrier function at low concentrations, provides gentle keratolytic softening, and acts as a co-solvent for water-soluble actives.

Why It's Used: The reference humectant — lowest cost, best safety profile, universal formulation compatibility, and present naturally in the sc via lipase-mediated glycerolipid hydrolysis makes glycerin the industry standard against which all humectants are benchmarked.

How It Works: Three hydroxyl groups form 6 h-bonds with water molecules per glycerol unit — the highest oh-group density per carbon of any commercial humectant. glycerin also down-regulates epidermal serine proteases that overactivate in dry sc, improving desquamation and barrier integrity.

Typically Found In: All cosmetics,universal

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–40%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Epidermal lipases hydrolyse sc glycerophospholipids during cornification, releasing glycerol that contributes to the natural nmf — topical glycerin directly supplements this endogenous sc humectant pool.

Last Verified: Cosing database,glycerin universal humectant review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides natural phospholipid emulsification with barrier-compatible delivery and liposome-forming properties.

Why It's Used: The most biologically authentic emulsifier – identical to cell membrane composition providing barrier-compatible delivery and liposome formation unavailable from synthetic emulsifiers.

How It Works: Phosphatidylcholine (pc), phosphatidylethanolamine (pe), phosphatidylinositol (pi) mixture provides hlb 7-12 for o/w emulsification. forms liposomal bilayers for active encapsulation. pc/pe/pi composition mirrors cell membrane for barrier-compatible delivery.

Typically Found In: Natural cosmetics,liposomal products,barrier repair,penetration-enhanced formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – natural phospholipid emulsifier

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – soy lecithin (vegan); egg lecithin (not vegan)

Halal Status: Conditional – soy (halal); egg (verify)

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Lecithin's phospholipid composition mirrors the composition of the stratum corneum's own lamellar bodies that deliver barrier lipids to the skin surface. this structural mimicry allows lecithin-based delivery systems to integrate seamlessly with the barrier lipid structure, exploiting the same transport pathway the skin uses for its own lipid secretion.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12