Dot & Key Strawberry Dew Do-It-All Moisturizer with Niacinamide, Peptides & Hyaluronic Acid, Non-sticky, Brightens Skin, Intense Moisturization, Non-Comedogenic & Fragrance Free, Lightweight- 80 gm

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Specialty active ingredient; check individual sourcing for vegan status.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, promotes skin cell renewal, and provides mild keratolytic exfoliation.

Why It's Used: Gold standard multi-function soothing active – one of the most widely used cosmetic ingredients across all product types for its exceptional tolerability and clinically proven multi-action skin conditioning.

How It Works: Promotes keratinocyte proliferation and fibroblast migration for wound healing. mild keratolytic activity by disrupting corneocyte binding. anti-irritant via direct protein binding and anti-inflammatory cytokine reduction. humectant activity via hydroxyl groups.

Typically Found In: Post-procedure products,sensitive skin formulas,wound care,anti-acne treatments,baby products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – soothing / anti-inflammatory

Secondary Functions: Wound healing,keratolytic,anti-irritant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or comfrey-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Exceptionally well-tolerated; suitable for all skin types including baby and compromised skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – particularly recommended for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Allantoin's keratinocyte proliferation stimulation occurs via receptor-mediated signaling (possibly machr activation) rather than non-specific irritation-driven proliferation, making it a true wound-healing stimulant rather than a pro-inflammatory proliferative signal.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,araújo et al. allantoin review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Specialty active ingredient; check individual sourcing for vegan status.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Lightweight, stable emollient that solubilizes oil-soluble actives for excellent delivery without greasy feel.

Why It's Used: Universal lightweight emollient base and solubilizer for oil-soluble actives in serums and low-viscosity formulations where mineral oil or petrolatum would be too heavy.

How It Works: Medium-chain length provides ideal balance of spreading coefficient, penetration rate, and barrier-sealing properties. excellent solubilizer for vitamin e, retinoids, and other lipophilic actives.

Typically Found In: Serums,facial oils,sunscreens,anti-aging products,hair products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – medium-chain triglyceride emollient

Secondary Functions: Active solubilizer,spreading agent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut/palm kernel oil

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fractionated by hydrolysis and re-esterification of coconut oil. only c8 and c10 fatty acids retained.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – very low; medium-chain length generally non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Mct oil's medium-chain length (c8/c10) provides superior oxidative stability vs longer polyunsaturated chains and better skin aesthetics (lighter, less greasy) vs longer chain emollients (c16/c18). excellent solubilizer for retinoic acid, tocopheryl esters, and other lipophilic actives.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides fatty alcohol emulsification and thickening for stable, well-textured emulsions.

Why It's Used: The most widely used fatty alcohol in cosmetics – provides emulsification, thickening, and emolliency simultaneously from a single ingredient with excellent safety profile.

How It Works: Forms bilayer lamellar structures in water with emulsifiers creating a viscous structured network that thickens and stabilizes emulsions. fatty alcohol emolliency provides direct skin conditioning. bilayer formation reduces inter-droplet coalescence in emulsions.

Typically Found In: Creams,lotions,conditioners – virtually all emulsion products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – fatty alcohol emulsifier/thickener

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–25%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from vegetable or coconut/palm fatty acids

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cetearyl alcohol's ability to form lamellar liquid crystal structures ('krafft phases') with water and co-emulsifiers provides not only emulsion stability but also enhanced skin penetration via the lamellar skin barrier pathway. these crystalline structures can act as a reservoir for active ingredients, slowly releasing them as the lamellar structure melts on skin contact.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides c16 fatty alcohol emolliency and thickening for well-textured cosmetic emulsions.

Why It's Used: Lighter-textured fatty alcohol alternative to stearyl alcohol for creams and conditioners requiring less heavy emolliency.

How It Works: C16 chain length provides slightly lower melting point (49°c) than stearyl (60°c) giving softer, lighter emulsion texture. forms lamellar networks for thickening and stability. direct skin and hair conditioning via fatty alcohol film.

Typically Found In: Creams,hair conditioners,lotions

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – fatty alcohol

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from vegetable or coconut/palm fatty acids

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cetyl alcohol's c16 chain length is at the approximate thermal transition point for fatty alcohol lamellar crystallization at skin temperature (33°c). this transition (from ordered crystalline to disordered liquid phase near skin temperature) provides the characteristic 'melts on application' sensory profile that makes cetyl alcohol-containing products feel cooling and light on initial application.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides a dry, weightless application vehicle that evaporates cleanly leaving actives and non-volatile silicones deposited on skin — eliminating the residual heaviness of conventional liquid carrier solvents.

Why It's Used: Cyclosiloxanes are the unique volatile silicone solvents that dissolve non-volatile silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone), organic uv filters, and lipophilic actives, providing the sensory-superior dry-touch application experience in premium formulations.

How It Works: Cyclosiloxane vapour pressure (d5 cyclopentasiloxane ~0.3 mmhg at 25°c) provides clean evaporation at body temperature. the cyclic ring structure provides lower boiling point than equivalent linear dimethicone, enabling faster evaporation while the ring conformation maintains the silicone's low surface energy for smooth application.

Typically Found In: Primers,antiperspirants,sunscreens

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cyclopentasiloxane (d5) and cyclohexasiloxane (d6) are under eu regulatory review for potential environmental persistence (pbt assessment) — formulators should monitor eu regulation 2018/35 implementation for restrictions in wash-off products.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu cyclosiloxane regulatory review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides silicone-characteristic silky feel and skin protection with adjustable viscosity.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic silicone – sets the gold standard for silky application feel, spreadability, and skin protection in virtually all skin care categories.

How It Works: Polydimethylsiloxane chain flexibility provides extremely low surface tension and high spreadability. inert si-o backbone provides chemical stability and excellent skin tolerance. occlusive film formation reduces tewl. higher viscosity grades provide more intense conditioning.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,foundations,primers,sunscreens – nearly universal

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – polydimethylsiloxane

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Dimethicone's exceptional silky feel arises from its very low intermolecular attractive forces (weak van der waals forces due to non-polar methyl groups) that allow silicone chains to slide freely over skin. the coefficient of kinetic friction for pdms against skin (~0.04) is among the lowest of any cosmetic material – explaining why even small amounts transform product feel.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides metal ion chelation to prevent product degradation and boost preservative and antioxidant efficacy.

Why It's Used: The most essential stability ingredient in cosmetics — disodium edta's metal chelation prevents rancidity, discoloration, and preservative failure caused by trace metal contamination in virtually all aqueous cosmetic formulations.

How It Works: Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid provides six potential coordination sites for metal ions (aminodiacetate groups). chelates ca²⁺, mg²⁺ (stability), fe³⁺ (fenton radical prevention), cu²⁺ (oxidase inhibition). disrupts gram-negative bacterial outer membrane by chelating membrane calcium, enhancing preservative penetration.

Typically Found In: Virtually all aqueous cosmetics — creams, lotions, shampoos, toners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – chelating agent

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.005%–0.1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Disodium edta's preservative potentiation against gram-negative bacteria is mechanistically elegant: gram-negative outer membranes contain lipopolysaccharide stabilised by calcium and magnesium bridges. edta chelates these metal ions, destabilising the lps layer and creating pores that allow hydrophobic preservatives (phenoxyethanol, parabens) to penetrate — converting gram-negative-resistant preservatives into broad-spectrum ones.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12