FEKKAI Brilliant Glossing Styling Crème

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides silicone-characteristic silky feel and skin protection with adjustable viscosity.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic silicone – sets the gold standard for silky application feel, spreadability, and skin protection in virtually all skin care categories.

How It Works: Polydimethylsiloxane chain flexibility provides extremely low surface tension and high spreadability. inert si-o backbone provides chemical stability and excellent skin tolerance. occlusive film formation reduces tewl. higher viscosity grades provide more intense conditioning.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,foundations,primers,sunscreens – nearly universal

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – polydimethylsiloxane

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Dimethicone's exceptional silky feel arises from its very low intermolecular attractive forces (weak van der waals forces due to non-polar methyl groups) that allow silicone chains to slide freely over skin. the coefficient of kinetic friction for pdms against skin (~0.04) is among the lowest of any cosmetic material – explaining why even small amounts transform product feel.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides fresh rose-geranium floral scent with antimicrobial activity.

Why It's Used: The rose fragrance terpene – geraniol defines the fresh, sweet rose-geranium note found in more than 60 essential oils and is essential for recreating natural floral fragrance profiles.

How It Works: Monoterpene alcohol inhibits bacterial membrane integrity for antimicrobial activity. activates trpv1 for anti-nociception. inhibits nf-kb for anti-inflammatory activity. antioxidant via allylic radical scavenging.

Typically Found In: Rose-scented products,floral fragrances,natural cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – acyclic monoterpene alcohol

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from rose, geranium, palmarosa oils

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Geraniol's isomers (geraniol, nerol, citronellol) provide subtly different scent characters despite identical molecular formulae (c10h18o): geraniol provides the sweet, fresh rose note while its z-isomer nerol has a more delicate, neroli-like character. these isomeric scent differences arise from different spatial presentation of the hydroxyl and double bond groups to the olfactory receptor – demonstrating the extraordinary structural sensitivity of olfactory perception.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the gentlest chemical exfoliation with simultaneous antioxidant, moisture retention, and barrier support.

Why It's Used: Preferred exfoliant for rosacea, eczema, sensitive skin, and post-procedure recovery where standard ahas cause unacceptable irritation.

How It Works: Hydrolyzes slowly on skin surface to gluconic acid providing gentle exfoliation. multiple hydroxyl groups enable water binding (humectant) and metal chelation (antioxidant).

Typically Found In: Sensitive skin exfoliants,rosacea treatments,eczema care,post-procedure recovery

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – polyhydroxy acid (pha)

Secondary Functions: Gentle exfoliation,antioxidant,humectant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 5%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – fermentation or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived from glucose or synthetic. among the safest chemical exfoliants available.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: No photosensitization; no stinging; suitable for very sensitive skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – ideal for sensitive, reactive, rosacea, and eczema-prone skin; no photosensitization

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Exceptional safety profile. no photosensitization. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,soothing actives

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Phas have molecular weights 2–3× larger than ahas, limiting penetration to superficial layers. combined humectant and antioxidant properties make them uniquely well-tolerated while providing meaningful exfoliation.

Last Verified: Cosing database,green & yu (2003) pha review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the characteristic cosmetic function of its ingredient class through its molecular chemistry at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Hexamethylindanopyran is selected for the specific functional properties of its molecular class — the chemical architecture of hexamethylindanopyran delivers the required cosmetic performance through documented interactions with skin biology and formulation matrix.

How It Works: The functional groups interact with formulation components and skin surfaces through h-bonding, ionic association, surface adsorption, or receptor activity as appropriate to the molecular class.

Typically Found In: Cosmetic formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Safety documented in cosing and cosmetic chemistry literature at standard formulation concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,hexamethylindanopyran technical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-22

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Hydroxycitronellal has an established safety profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,hydroxycitronellal technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Laureth-7 has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,laureth-7 technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the defining fresh citrus fragrance note alongside solvent and antimicrobial properties.

Why It's Used: The citrus industry's primary fragrance compound and the most abundant terpene in essential oils – limonene provides the clean, universally appealing fresh citrus scent character.

How It Works: D-limonene activates trpv1 mildly at high concentrations. antimicrobial via membrane disruption. solvent for oils and lipophilic compounds. cleaning via emulsification of lipid soils.

Typically Found In: Citrus-scented products,cleaning products,fragrance compounds

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – cyclic monoterpene

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from citrus peel essential oils

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. oxidises to sensitising compounds (limonene hydroperoxides) on air exposure – use with antioxidant stabilisers. ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Limonene's sensitisation risk arises not from limonene itself but from its autooxidation products (limonene-1,2-epoxide and limonene hydroperoxides) formed on air exposure. fresh limonene has low sensitisation potential, but air-oxidised limonene's hydroperoxide products are potent skin sensitisers. this explains why oxidation-stabilised formulations (with bht or other antioxidants) are required to manage limonene safety.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards,bråred christensson et al. limonene oxidation study

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the most common natural floral-citrus fragrance note with additional anti-inflammatory properties.

Why It's Used: The most abundant fragrance terpene in nature – linalool forms the primary scent character of lavender, responsible for lavender's documented aromatherapy calming effects.

How It Works: Monoterpene alcohol activates gaba-a receptors for anti-anxiety activity (same receptor as benzodiazepines). inhibits glutamate-induced excitotoxicity. antimicrobial via membrane disruption. anti-inflammatory via nf-kb inhibition.

Typically Found In: Virtually all fragranced cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – tertiary terpene alcohol

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from lavender, coriander, bergamot

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen on label when >0.001% (leave-on) or >0.01% (rinse-off). ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Linalool's gaba-a receptor activation provides a pharmacological basis for lavender aromatherapy's documented anxiolytic effects. the same receptor modulation used by benzodiazepine drugs (such as diazepam) is activated by inhaled linalool vapor, providing receptor-mediated calming without the tolerance and dependence associated with pharmaceutical gaba-a modulators.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards,elisabetsky et al. linalool gaba study

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Panthenol deeply moisturizes skin and hair, soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, strengthens the skin barrier, and improves hair elasticity and shine.

Why It's Used: It is used because it is exceptionally versatile, working in both skin and hair formulations. it is gentle enough for sensitive and post-procedure skin, and converts to the active vitamin b5 within the skin.

How It Works: Panthenol penetrates skin and hair, where it is oxidized to pantothenic acid (vitamin b5), a coenzyme a precursor essential to metabolism. in skin, it acts as a humectant and stimulates fibroblast proliferation. in hair, it coats the shaft, improving manageability.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,toners,after-sun products,wound healing products,shampoos,conditioners,hair masks,beard care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – provitamin b5

Secondary Functions: Anti-inflammatory,wound healing,hair conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5% (typical: 1–3%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetically produced

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially synthesized. both d- and dl-forms used in cosmetics; d-panthenol is the biologically active isomer but dl-panthenol is less expensive and widely used.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; one of the most soothing ingredients in cosmetics

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare contact allergy; considered one of the safest cosmetic ingredients. suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – ideal for sensitive, reactive, and post-procedure skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Exceptionally safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or systemic toxicity. safe during pregnancy.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,allantoin,niacinamide,centella asiatica,retinol (reduces irritation),glycerin

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Panthenol has demonstrated wound-healing properties in clinical studies, stimulating fibroblast proliferation and migration. its dual humectant and anti-inflammatory action makes it particularly effective in barrier-repair formulations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ebner et al. (2002) skin pharmacology and applied skin physiology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12