Gentle Glycolic Acid Resurfacing Serum for Sensitive Skin

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the most abundant natural skin ceramide for precise stratum corneum barrier lipid replacement.

Why It's Used: The primary skin ceramide — ceramide np's identity as the dominant stratum corneum ceramide fraction makes it the most physiologically relevant barrier lipid replacement for dry skin and eczema.

How It Works: N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine provides the exact molecular structure of the most abundant natural skin ceramide. integrates into stratum corneum lamellar lipid bilayers restoring barrier architecture. reduces tewl, improves corneometer moisture, restores barrier integrity. synergistic with cholesterol and fatty acids in barrier restoration.

Typically Found In: Barrier repair moisturisers,eczema care,dry skin treatment

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – phytosphingosine ceramide

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – from wheat or phytosphingosine fermentation; plant-derived available

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ceramide np's structural identity to natural skin ceramide 3 (the dominant sc ceramide at approximately 18% of total sc ceramide fraction) means it integrates into the stratum corneum's lamellar bilayer structure with perfect molecular recognition. no other moisturising ingredient can achieve this level of structural identity to the natural barrier component it replaces — providing barrier repair rather than simply occlusive surface coating.

Last Verified: Cosing database,elias skin barrier ceramide review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides maximum aha efficacy from the smallest most penetrating alpha-hydroxy acid.

Why It's Used: The most potent aha — glycolic acid's smallest molecular size provides the deepest penetration and highest efficacy of any alpha-hydroxy acid for exfoliation and anti-aging.

How It Works: Smallest aha (mw 76) provides deepest stratum corneum penetration. disrupts corneodesmosomes reducing cohesion. stimulates fibroblast collagen i and iii synthesis. efficacy is ph-dependent — free acid fraction determines activity.

Typically Found In: Chemical peels,body lotions,anti-aging serums,exfoliating toners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – primary aha

Secondary Functions: Brightening,collagen stimulation

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10% cosmetic; higher professional

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or fermentation-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived or synthetic. ph must be ≤4.0 for aha activity.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Photosensitizing – mandatory spf use. start at low frequency.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – spf required

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics: max 10% leave-on, ph ≥3.5, mandatory sun protection advisory. professional peel concentrations regulated separately.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf

Avoid Combining With: Retinol in same step; multiple exfoliants simultaneously

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycolic acid's ph-dependent efficacy is critical: at ph 3.0 ~100% is in the free acid (membrane-permeable) form; at ph 3.5 ~70%; at ph 4.0 ~50%. the eu ph ≥3.5 requirement reduces free acid proportion, lowering efficacy but also reducing irritation — why professional peel concentrations at lower ph are far more active than equivalent cosmetic concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu aha guidelines,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection from reactive oxygen species, reduces inflammatory cytokine production in skin, and conditions skin through the plant's phytochemical complex.

Why It's Used: Natural origin narrative, traditional use heritage, and multi-functional phytochemical profile supporting concurrent skin care claims from one ingredient.

How It Works: Polyphenols, terpenoids, and alkaloids scavenge ros via h• donation, inhibit nf-kb or cox-2 inflammatory pathways, and interact with skin surface proteins for conditioning.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care,natural products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites evolved as photoprotectants and antimicrobials — mechanisms directly applicable to cosmetic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in human skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,houttuynia cordata extract botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection from polyphenol radical scavenging, anti-inflammatory activity from terpenoid nf-kb/cox inhibition, and multi-active skin conditioning.

Why It's Used: Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract is selected for the characteristic secondary metabolite signature of phaeodactylum tricornutum — whether polyphenols, terpenoids, alkaloids, or polysaccharides, the phytochemical profile provides antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, or skin conditioning benefits specific to this botanical species.

How It Works: Polyphenol catechol groups donate h-atoms to ros scavenging (rate constants 10⁶-10⁹ m⁻¹s⁻¹); terpenoids inhibit iκb kinase; flavonoids compete at cox-1/2; alkaloids modulate specific receptors.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Standardise to active marker compounds for consistent bioactivity — field-grown material varies 3-10× in secondary metabolite content.

Last Verified: Cosing database,phaeodactylum tricornutum extract botanical extract review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-22

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant and solvent functionality from sustainable corn-based fermentation.

Why It's Used: Bio-based propylene glycol alternative from renewable corn — propanediol provides equivalent functionality to propylene glycol with sustainable renewable feedstock and superior skin feel.

How It Works: Two oh groups provide humectant water binding. excellent solvent for fragrances, actives, and preservatives. mild antimicrobial from diol structure for preservative system boosting. renew corn fermentation origin (dupont zemea process). better skin feel than propylene glycol — less sticky.

Typically Found In: Virtually all cosmetic categories as pg alternative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from corn sugar fermentation

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Propanediol's dupont tate & lyle bio products 'zemea' process ferments corn sugar to 1,3-propanediol using engineered e. coli — one of the first commercially viable bio-fermentation routes to a cosmetic diol previously made only from petroleum. the renewable route produces chemically identical 1,3-propanediol while reducing carbon footprint by approximately 40% vs petrochemical synthesis.

Last Verified: Cosing database,dupont tate & lyle zemea technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides superior moisture retention under dehydrating conditions – uniquely protective in extreme environments.

Why It's Used: Premium humectant for formulations targeting dehydration, environmental stress protection, and dry/mature skin hydration.

How It Works: Forms a protective glassy matrix that replaces water molecules around proteins and cell membranes during dehydration stress, preventing protein denaturation and membrane damage. stronger water binding than sucrose or glucose.

Typically Found In: Premium moisturizers,protective barrier formulas,anti-aging products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – anhydrobiotic sugar / humectant

Secondary Functions: Stress protection,barrier support,cryoprotectant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – fermentation-derived or from yeast

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Produced by yeast fermentation or enzymatic conversion of starch. available as anhydrous or dihydrate form.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; exceptionally well-tolerated; endogenous to many organisms.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Trehalose's unique ability to form an amorphous glassy matrix during dehydration (replacing water molecules) explains the survival of tardigrades and resurrection plants. this property translates to exceptional skin protection under environmental dehydration stress.

Last Verified: Cosing database,crowe et al. trehalose anhydrobiosis review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: At 2–10%: provides deep humectancy, softens sc, and improves other active penetration. at 10–40%: keratolytically dissolves corneocyte protein bonds for intensive exfoliation of hyperkeratotic skin (calluses, eczema plaques, psoriasis).

Why It's Used: Urea combines two otherwise separate ingredient classes (humectant and keratolytic) in one molecule, with formulator-controlled function through concentration selection — uniquely versatile for multiple skin condition applications.

How It Works: Urea's carbonyl and amine groups form h-bonds with water (humectancy) and with corneocyte keratin (penetration). at high concentrations, urea disrupts keratin hydrogen bonds (chaotropic activity) solubilising the sc protein matrix — concentration determines whether humectant or keratolytic effect predominates.

Typically Found In: Eczema,hyperkeratosis,callus care,moisturising

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–40%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Urea is the most concentrated natural nmf component — healthy sc contains 28 mg/g urea versus 2 mg/g in xerotic (dry) skin. topical urea application directly replenishes the physiological nmf deficit that drives dry skin conditions.

Last Verified: Cosing database,urea nmf dual function humectant keratolytic review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection from reactive oxygen species, reduces inflammatory cytokine production in skin, and conditions skin through the plant's phytochemical complex.

Why It's Used: Natural origin narrative, traditional use heritage, and multi-functional phytochemical profile supporting concurrent skin care claims from one ingredient.

How It Works: Polyphenols, terpenoids, and alkaloids scavenge ros via h• donation, inhibit nf-kb or cox-2 inflammatory pathways, and interact with skin surface proteins for conditioning.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care,natural products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites evolved as photoprotectants and antimicrobials — mechanisms directly applicable to cosmetic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in human skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides a complex of amino acids for skin and hair conditioning from the source protein's characteristic sequence — delivering sc-native amino acids for nmf replenishment, keratin structural support, and humectant moisture retention.

Why It's Used: Protein-source amino acid complexes provide the most physiologically compatible conditioning — the amino acid composition matching the source tissue provides structural complementarity with skin proteins for optimal conditioning substantivity.

How It Works: Free amino acids from hydrolysis provide: nmf replenishment (glutamic acid, serine, alanine — native sc humectants); keratin structural support (cysteine, glycine, proline — keratin and collagen building blocks); cationic conditioning (lysine, arginine — electrostatic deposition on negative surfaces).

Typically Found In: All formulations,natural skin care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Moisture retention,hydration

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived or fermentation-produced.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for sensitive skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,barrier actives

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sugar-derived ingredients provide exceptional safety profiles from the food-grade starting material heritage — gras status of many sugar feedstocks extends beneficial safety documentation to the cosmetic derivative.

Last Verified: Cosing database,yeast amino acids polyol sugar derivative review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-22