HERSAY Illuminating Radiance Serum

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, promotes skin cell renewal, and provides mild keratolytic exfoliation.

Why It's Used: Gold standard multi-function soothing active – one of the most widely used cosmetic ingredients across all product types for its exceptional tolerability and clinically proven multi-action skin conditioning.

How It Works: Promotes keratinocyte proliferation and fibroblast migration for wound healing. mild keratolytic activity by disrupting corneocyte binding. anti-irritant via direct protein binding and anti-inflammatory cytokine reduction. humectant activity via hydroxyl groups.

Typically Found In: Post-procedure products,sensitive skin formulas,wound care,anti-acne treatments,baby products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – soothing / anti-inflammatory

Secondary Functions: Wound healing,keratolytic,anti-irritant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or comfrey-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Exceptionally well-tolerated; suitable for all skin types including baby and compromised skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – particularly recommended for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Allantoin's keratinocyte proliferation stimulation occurs via receptor-mediated signaling (possibly machr activation) rather than non-specific irritation-driven proliferation, making it a true wound-healing stimulant rather than a pro-inflammatory proliferative signal.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,araújo et al. allantoin review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the specific b-vitamin's characteristic skin and hair benefits: brightening and barrier reinforcement (niacinamide), keratin structural support (biotin), deep conditioning humectancy (panthenol).

Why It's Used: B-vitamins operate through fundamental cellular biochemistry pathways — nad⁺ for niacinamide, carboxylase cofactor for biotin, coa synthesis for panthenol — providing multi-benefit activity from essential metabolic chemistry.

How It Works: Acts as coenzyme or substrate in essential metabolic pathways: niacinamide → nad⁺/nadp⁺ → ceramide synthesis, melanosome transfer inhibition; biotin → carboxylase → fatty acid synthesis for ceramide; panthenol → pantothenic acid → coa → lipid metabolism.

Typically Found In: Multi-function skin care,b-vitamin formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – vitamin b complex

Secondary Functions: Antioxidant cofactor,metabolic support

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetically produced for cosmetic use.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; excellent tolerability.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Other b vitamins,niacinamide,antioxidant complexes

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

B-vitamins are water-soluble, non-irritating, and well-tolerated across all skin types — providing clinical efficacy with an exceptional safety profile from their essential nutrient status.

Last Verified: Cosing database,d-panthenol b-vitamin skin review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Attracts and retains moisture in the sc, improves skin barrier function at low concentrations, provides gentle keratolytic softening, and acts as a co-solvent for water-soluble actives.

Why It's Used: The reference humectant — lowest cost, best safety profile, universal formulation compatibility, and present naturally in the sc via lipase-mediated glycerolipid hydrolysis makes glycerin the industry standard against which all humectants are benchmarked.

How It Works: Three hydroxyl groups form 6 h-bonds with water molecules per glycerol unit — the highest oh-group density per carbon of any commercial humectant. glycerin also down-regulates epidermal serine proteases that overactivate in dry sc, improving desquamation and barrier integrity.

Typically Found In: All cosmetics,universal

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–40%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Epidermal lipases hydrolyse sc glycerophospholipids during cornification, releasing glycerol that contributes to the natural nmf — topical glycerin directly supplements this endogenous sc humectant pool.

Last Verified: Cosing database,glycerin universal humectant review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides shimmer and pearlescence from flat-platelet mica crystal light reflection.

Why It's Used: Universal cosmetic shimmer ingredient – mica's flat-platelet morphology provides the directional light reflection responsible for the dimensional shimmer effect in all pearlescent cosmetics.

How It Works: Flat platelets (1-200μm) reflect and refract light specularly producing shimmer. when coated with tio2 or iron oxides, provides colour-shifting pearlescence via thin-film optical interference. natural slip from platelet layering reduces application friction.

Typically Found In: Foundation,eyeshadow,highlighter,blush – virtually all colour cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Colorant – mineral shimmer pigment

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – natural mineral

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Mica-based pearlescent pigments (mica coated with tio2 or iron oxides) produce colour-shifting optical effects via thin-film light interference – the same phenomenon as oil on water or butterfly wings. as tio2 coating thickness increases, the interference wavelength shifts from silver → gold → red → violet → blue → green, creating the entire pearlescent colour palette from a single mineral substrate by controlling coating thickness.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu cosmetics regulation annex iv,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, reduces visible pore size, regulates sebum production, fades dark spots, and improves skin texture and tone.

Why It's Used: It is used because it addresses multiple skin concerns at once without irritation, making it suitable for all skin types. it is stable in formulations and pairs well with most other actives.

How It Works: Niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanosomes (pigment packets) to skin cells, reducing hyperpigmentation. it also stimulates ceramide synthesis to strengthen the skin barrier and reduces inflammation by modulating cytokine activity.

Typically Found In: Serums,moisturizers,toners,cleansers,eye creams,sunscreens,primers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – vitamin

Secondary Functions: Barrier repair,brightening,anti-inflammatory

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–10% (typical: 5%; higher concentrations may cause flushing in some individuals)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetically produced

Halal Status: Yes – synthetic origin

Source Notes: Commercially produced via synthesis from nicotinic acid or 3-cyanopyridine. no animal-derived sources used in cosmetic-grade niacinamide.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; concentrations above 10% may cause temporary flushing in sensitive individuals

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: At concentrations >10%, some users experience niacin flush (transient redness/tingling). generally very well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – one of the best-tolerated actives for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Extensively studied and considered very safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant systemic toxicity concerns at topical concentrations.

Works Well With: Retinol,peptides,ahas/bhas,hyaluronic acid,ceramides,zinc,vitamin c,spf

Avoid Combining With: High concentrations of vitamin c (ascorbic acid) may theoretically convert to niacin – use at different times if using pure l-ascorbic acid above 15%

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Niacinamide is a precursor to nad+ and nadp+, coenzymes vital to cellular energy metabolism. its benefits for dna repair and mitochondrial function make it a key ingredient in anti-aging strategies.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,pubmed clinical studies

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12