HY-ÖL Cleanser

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Alcohol denat. dissolves oil-soluble and water-soluble cosmetic actives, provides rapid antimicrobial activity at concentrations above 60–70% by denaturing microbial proteins, delivers a refreshing cooling sensation through evaporative cooling on skin, and temporarily enhances the penetration of topical actives by transiently disrupting the stratum corneum lipid bilayer organisation.

Why It's Used: Formulators choose alcohol denat. for its irreplaceable combination of solvent power, antimicrobial activity, and penetration-enhancing properties. no other cosmetic solvent simultaneously provides the cooling sensory experience of alcohol (from evaporative cooling at the skin surface), the immediate antimicrobial activity required for sanitisers (from protein denaturation above 60%), and the transient sc lipid disruption that improves active ingredient delivery (essential in actives-rich toners and essences). for denatured alcohol specifically, denaturing agents (typically 5% isopropanol or bitrex) prevent consumption without affecting cosmetic function.

How It Works: Alcohol denat. works through multiple mechanisms depending on concentration: (1) solvent action — alcohol's hydroxyl group provides hydrogen bonding with water while the short alkyl chain provides interaction with organic solutes, enabling dissolution of both hydrophilic and moderately lipophilic cosmetic actives in a single solvent; (2) antimicrobial — above 60% concentration, ethanol denatures microbial proteins by disrupting non-covalent bonds maintaining protein secondary and tertiary structure — the alcohol molecules intercalate between protein chains, disrupting the hydrophobic interactions and hydrogen bonds that maintain enzyme active site geometry. this non-specific protein denaturation is immediately bactericidal and virucidal with no resistance mechanism possible; (3) sc penetration enhancement — at lower concentrations (5–30%), ethanol transiently fluidises the sc lipid bilayer by intercalating between the ordered lipid lamellae, disrupting the crystal packing and increasing lipid bilayer fluidity. this transient fluidisation increases the diffusion coefficient of co-applied actives through the sc for up to 30 minutes post-application; (4) astringency — alcohol's protein precipitating action at the skin surface contracts superficial proteins, temporarily tightening pores and reducing oiliness.

Typically Found In: Toners,hand sanitisers,actives serums

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 5%–95%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ethanol concentration-dependent antimicrobial efficacy: below 40% — minimal bactericidal effect (insufficient protein denaturation); 40–60% — bacteriostatic, not bactericidal; 60–70% — peak bactericidal efficacy against both enveloped and non-enveloped viruses and vegetative bacteria (optimal water content maintains protein hydration required for denaturation to proceed); 80–90% — remains effective but slightly reduced from decreased water activity; 95–100% — reduced efficacy (insufficient water for protein denaturation). the 70% 'sweet spot' for sanitisers reflects this concentration-efficacy peak, not a formulation convenience.

Last Verified: Cosing database,alcohol denat. ethanol solvent antimicrobial review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides emollient conditioning from fatty acid triglycerides — oleic, linoleic, and linolenic acids supporting barrier lipid supplementation and ceramide precursor delivery.

Why It's Used: Arachis hypogaea oil is selected for the distinctive triglyceride fatty acid profile of arachis hypogaea — the specific oleic, linoleic, and saturated fatty acid ratio determines the spreading speed, occlusion level, and sc barrier integration properties unique to this botanical oil.

How It Works: Fatty acid triglycerides integrate into sc: oleic (c18:1) provides fluid emolliency; linoleic (c18:2) serves as ceramide precursor; alpha-linolenic (c18:3) provides anti-inflammatory eicosanoid competition.

Typically Found In: Skin care,barrier repair

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Verify specific oil's efa composition and oxidative stability index for target application and shelf life.

Last Verified: Cosing database,arachis hypogaea oil botanical oil review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-22

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Decyl oleate has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,decyl oleate technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection from reactive oxygen species, reduces inflammatory cytokine production in skin, and conditions skin through the plant's phytochemical complex.

Why It's Used: Natural origin narrative, traditional use heritage, and multi-functional phytochemical profile supporting concurrent skin care claims from one ingredient.

How It Works: Polyphenols, terpenoids, and alkaloids scavenge ros via h• donation, inhibit nf-kb or cox-2 inflammatory pathways, and interact with skin surface proteins for conditioning.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care,natural products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites evolved as photoprotectants and antimicrobials — mechanisms directly applicable to cosmetic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in human skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,glycine soja oil botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection from reactive oxygen species, reduces inflammatory cytokine production in skin, and conditions skin through the plant's phytochemical complex.

Why It's Used: Natural origin narrative, traditional use heritage, and multi-functional phytochemical profile supporting concurrent skin care claims from one ingredient.

How It Works: Polyphenols, terpenoids, and alkaloids scavenge ros via h• donation, inhibit nf-kb or cox-2 inflammatory pathways, and interact with skin surface proteins for conditioning.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care,natural products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites evolved as photoprotectants and antimicrobials — mechanisms directly applicable to cosmetic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in human skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,helianthus annuus seed oil botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides elegant dry-touch emolliency with excellent solubilisation for active ingredients.

Why It's Used: Premium emollient solvent — octyldodecanol's branched c20 structure provides a uniquely dry, elegant emollient character with exceptional compatibility for challenging actives.

How It Works: Branched c20 fatty alcohol provides dry, non-greasy emolliency. excellent solvent for fat-soluble vitamins, retinoids, uv filters, and flavour compounds. lower viscosity than longer-chain fatty alcohols for elegant application. very good spreading coefficient for uniform application.

Typically Found In: Premium skincare,sunscreens,vitamin delivery systems

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from c10 alcohols via guerbet reaction (plant-derived)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Octyldodecanol is produced via the guerbet reaction — a base-catalysed self-condensation of two c10 alcohol molecules (decanol) yielding the branched c20 2-octyldodecanol. this reaction produces a highly branched structure that prevents crystallisation (liquid at room temperature), providing liquid-state emolliency with a completely different tactile profile than the waxy feel of linear c20 fatty alcohols.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the characteristic cosmetic function of its ingredient class through its molecular chemistry at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Parfum is selected for the specific functional properties of its molecular class — the chemical architecture of parfum delivers the required cosmetic performance through documented interactions with skin biology and formulation matrix.

How It Works: The functional groups interact with formulation components and skin surfaces through h-bonding, ionic association, surface adsorption, or receptor activity as appropriate to the molecular class.

Typically Found In: Cosmetic formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Safety documented in cosing and cosmetic chemistry literature at standard formulation concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,parfum technical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-22

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Smooths and softens skin by filling intercorneocyte spaces, reducing friction, and providing a pleasant aesthetic skin feel in formulations.

Why It's Used: Synthetic esters provide tailored aesthetic properties — spreadability, skin feel, volatility, refractive index — that natural oils alone cannot consistently deliver.

How It Works: The ester molecule fills microscopic surface irregularities between corneocytes, reducing coefficient of friction, reflecting light uniformly, and providing a lubrication layer that protects the skin surface.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,sunscreens,color cosmetics,body lotions,lip products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Synthetic emollients

Secondary Functions: Emollient

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetically produced ester emollient; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 1

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Silicones,uv filters,other emollients

Avoid Combining With: Strongly alkaline conditions (risk of saponification of ester-type emollients)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

The spreading coefficient of an emollient is governed by its surface tension, viscosity, and polarity. esters with branched alkyl chains (e.g., isopropyl, isostearyl) spread rapidly and leave a non-tacky film; linear long-chain esters provide more substantive moisturization. hlb value determines the preferred formulation system (w/o vs o/w emulsions).

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Nourishes and softens skin through its balanced fatty acid profile, while antioxidant compounds protect against oxidative skin damage.

Why It's Used: Plant oils provide physiologically compatible lipid structures that integrate into the skin barrier and deliver fat-soluble antioxidants directly to skin cells.

How It Works: Fatty acids integrate into stratum corneum lipid lamellae, reinforcing the lipid barrier. antioxidants (tocopherols, carotenoids, polyphenols) neutralize ros through electron donation or singlet oxygen quenching.

Typically Found In: Face oils,serums,moisturizers,hair treatments,body oils

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Plant oils

Secondary Functions: Emollient,antioxidant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Cold-pressed or solvent-extracted plant oil; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 2

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Vitamin e,ceramides,other plant oils,squalane

Avoid Combining With: Strong oxidizers (accelerate rancidity)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Vegetable oils are triglyceride matrices where the fatty acid composition determines skin compatibility, barrier function, and comedogenicity. oleic acid-rich oils (>60%) soften barrier lipids and enhance penetration; linoleic acid-rich oils reinforce ceramide-poor stratum corneum; saturated fatty acid-rich oils provide occlusion without skin penetration.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; aocs plant oil composition databases; fatty acid pharmacology reviews

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides stable vitamin e delivery with antioxidant activity after esterase hydrolysis in skin.

Why It's Used: The formulation-stable vitamin e — tocopheryl acetate's ester protection prevents oxidative degradation during shelf life while releasing active tocopherol in skin for equivalent biological activity.

How It Works: Acetate ester blocks the phenolic oh group responsible for oxidation and radical scavenging. skin esterases cleave acetate bond releasing free tocopherol. released tocopherol provides lipid peroxyl radical scavenging in cell membranes. also provides direct emollient and skin conditioning.

Typically Found In: Moisturisers,sunscreens,anti-aging products — extremely widespread

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – stable vitamin e ester

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – natural from vegetable oils (soy, sunflower); synthetic dl-form

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: The d-alpha-tocopheryl acetate (natural isomer) is biologically superior to dl-alpha-tocopheryl acetate (racemic synthetic) for skin antioxidant activity. ingredient label d- vs dl- prefix identifies natural vs synthetic origin.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Tocopheryl acetate's conversion to active tocopherol in skin is quantitatively efficient: skin esterase activity is sufficient to cleave 60-80% of applied tocopheryl acetate within 24 hours of application. however, the conversion rate varies with skin condition (eczematous or barrier-compromised skin has reduced esterase activity), meaning tocopheryl acetate efficacy may be reduced precisely in the skin conditions that most need antioxidant support.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12