Kaya Anytime Moisturising Cream

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides exceptional moisture retention with mild keratolytic action softening rough, dry skin.

Why It's Used: Used as a gentler, more formulation-stable alternative to urea in moisturizers and treatments where urea's irritation or formulation limitations are concerns.

How It Works: The hydroxyethyl group improves aqueous stability vs urea while maintaining hydrogen bond donation/acceptance for water retention. mild keratolytic activity from urea moiety softens stratum corneum without significant irritation.

Typically Found In: Intensive moisturizers,keratolytic treatments,body lotions,foot care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – urea derivative humectant

Secondary Functions: Keratolytic,superior humectant,skin softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. better tolerated than high-concentration urea. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Hydroxyethyl modification significantly improves urea's aqueous stability (preventing hydrolysis to ammonia and co2) while the urea moiety retains hydrogen bond-forming capacity for superior water retention. superior formulation stability vs urea at equivalent concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,loden urea review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides deep nourishing emolliency with anti-inflammatory cinnamic acid esters and a uniquely rich unsaponifiable fraction.

Why It's Used: The most nutritious plant butter – unique cinnamic acid esters, lupeol, and rich unsaponifiable fraction provide anti-inflammatory and wound healing benefits beyond standard fatty acid emolliency.

How It Works: Cinnamic acid esters absorb uv radiation providing mild natural uv filtering (spf 3-4). lupeol inhibits nf-kb for anti-inflammatory activity. high stearic acid provides occlusive barrier function. rich unsaponifiable fraction (4-9%) provides phytosterols, tocopherols, and triterpenes for bioactive skin benefits.

Typically Found In: Body butters,rich moisturizers,baby products,hair conditioners,lip balms

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Cinnamic acid uv support,lupeol anti-inflammatory,rich emolliency

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from butyrospermum parkii nuts

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Unrefined (raw) shea retains more unsaponifiable fraction and stronger natural scent/color. refined shea is odorless, white, and cleaner for formulation. certified fair trade supports west african women's cooperatives.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic (refined); 2/5 – low (raw/unrefined)

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Shea butter's unsaponifiable fraction (4-9%, vs coconut oil's 0.5% and olive oil's 1-2%) is exceptionally rich in triterpenes, phytosterols, and tocopherols. this fraction is responsible for shea's anti-inflammatory and wound healing properties that simple fatty acid analysis fails to reveal.

Last Verified: Cosing database,lin et al. shea butter cinnamic acid study,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Deeply hydrates by binding water in the viable epidermis (not just the sc surface), stimulates keratinocyte proliferation for wound healing and barrier repair, and coats hair strands for conditioning and shine.

Why It's Used: Panthenol penetrates far deeper than glycerin due to its smaller size — reaching the viable epidermis where it converts to pantothenic acid (coa precursor) for direct metabolic support of skin cell function.

How It Works: D-panthenol is oxidised to pantothenic acid by skin alcoholic dehydrogenase after sc penetration → incorporated into coenzyme a (coa) → acetyl-coa for fatty acid synthesis supporting ceramide production. the polyol oh groups provide direct humectant water binding during transit.

Typically Found In: Healing skin care,conditioning,hair products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Panthenol's unique dual mechanism — provitamin metabolic activity (via coa) and direct humectant function (via oh groups) — provides both immediate surface moisture and deeper metabolic skin support from a single vitamin ingredient.

Last Verified: Cosing database,d-panthenol vitamin b5 humectant wound healing review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12