Marini Multi-Acid Exfoliating Pads

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Lightweight, stable emollient that solubilizes oil-soluble actives for excellent delivery without greasy feel.

Why It's Used: Universal lightweight emollient base and solubilizer for oil-soluble actives in serums and low-viscosity formulations where mineral oil or petrolatum would be too heavy.

How It Works: Medium-chain length provides ideal balance of spreading coefficient, penetration rate, and barrier-sealing properties. excellent solubilizer for vitamin e, retinoids, and other lipophilic actives.

Typically Found In: Serums,facial oils,sunscreens,anti-aging products,hair products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – medium-chain triglyceride emollient

Secondary Functions: Active solubilizer,spreading agent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut/palm kernel oil

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fractionated by hydrolysis and re-esterification of coconut oil. only c8 and c10 fatty acids retained.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – very low; medium-chain length generally non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Mct oil's medium-chain length (c8/c10) provides superior oxidative stability vs longer polyunsaturated chains and better skin aesthetics (lighter, less greasy) vs longer chain emollients (c16/c18). excellent solubilizer for retinoic acid, tocopheryl esters, and other lipophilic actives.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides maximum aha efficacy from the smallest most penetrating alpha-hydroxy acid.

Why It's Used: The most potent aha — glycolic acid's smallest molecular size provides the deepest penetration and highest efficacy of any alpha-hydroxy acid for exfoliation and anti-aging.

How It Works: Smallest aha (mw 76) provides deepest stratum corneum penetration. disrupts corneodesmosomes reducing cohesion. stimulates fibroblast collagen i and iii synthesis. efficacy is ph-dependent — free acid fraction determines activity.

Typically Found In: Chemical peels,body lotions,anti-aging serums,exfoliating toners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – primary aha

Secondary Functions: Brightening,collagen stimulation

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10% cosmetic; higher professional

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or fermentation-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived or synthetic. ph must be ≤4.0 for aha activity.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Photosensitizing – mandatory spf use. start at low frequency.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – spf required

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics: max 10% leave-on, ph ≥3.5, mandatory sun protection advisory. professional peel concentrations regulated separately.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf

Avoid Combining With: Retinol in same step; multiple exfoliants simultaneously

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycolic acid's ph-dependent efficacy is critical: at ph 3.0 ~100% is in the free acid (membrane-permeable) form; at ph 3.5 ~70%; at ph 4.0 ~50%. the eu ph ≥3.5 requirement reduces free acid proportion, lowering efficacy but also reducing irritation — why professional peel concentrations at lower ph are far more active than equivalent cosmetic concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu aha guidelines,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Exfoliates dead skin cells, attracts and retains moisture, brightens skin tone, and improves texture.

Why It's Used: Dual exfoliant and humectant – uniquely hydrating vs other ahas. gentler and suitable for normal-to-sensitive skin.

How It Works: Disrupts desmosomes to promote exfoliation at low ph. acts as humectant. also stimulates ceramide synthesis at lower concentrations for barrier support.

Typically Found In: Chemical exfoliants,toners,serums,professional peels

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – alpha hydroxy acid (aha)

Secondary Functions: Humectant,brightening,barrier support,ceramide synthesis

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–10% (daily); 20%–90% (professional); active at ph ≤3.9

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or fermentation-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived from carbohydrates or synthetically produced. both l-form and dl-form used.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Photosensitizing – spf required. better tolerated than glycolic acid for most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – spf required

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations. eu: ≤10% leave-on at ph ≥3.5. mandatory spf advisory.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf

Avoid Combining With: Retinol in same step; multiple exfoliants simultaneously

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Lactic acid's role as a natural moisturizing factor (nmf) component makes it uniquely hydrating among ahas. ceramide synthesis stimulation at 2% provides barrier benefits complementing exfoliating activity.

Last Verified: Cosing database,stiller et al. lactic acid review,sccs aha opinion

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides gentle aha exfoliation with lipophilic sebosuppressive anti-acne activity suitable for deeper skin tones.

Why It's Used: Skin-of-colour appropriate aha — mandelic acid's large size reduces pih risk making it the preferred aha for fitzpatrick iv–vi skin tones.

How It Works: Larger mw (152 vs glycolic 76) provides slower penetration reducing irritation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation risk. benzene ring provides lipophilicity for better follicular penetration and sebum regulation. antibacterial vs p. acnes from phenolic structure.

Typically Found In: Skin-of-colour exfoliants,anti-acne for sensitive skin

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – skin-of-colour appropriate aha

Secondary Functions: Brightening,collagen stimulation

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from bitter almond or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived or synthetic. ph must be ≤4.0 for aha activity.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Photosensitizing – mandatory spf use. start at low frequency.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – spf required

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations. eu: ≤10% leave-on at ph ≥3.5. mandatory spf advisory.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf

Avoid Combining With: Retinol in same step; multiple exfoliants simultaneously

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Mandelic acid's safety advantage for darker skin tones arises from its slower penetration rate: the larger lipophilic molecule penetrates 2–4× more slowly than glycolic acid, reducing the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from irritant-induced melanocyte stimulation — a critical clinical consideration for fitzpatrick iv–vi skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,khunger & sacchidanand mandelic acid review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant and solvent functionality with improved skin feel vs butylene glycol.

Why It's Used: Premium humectant solvent with superior skin feel to conventional diols for elegant premium formulation textures.

How It Works: Branched c4 structure provides good humectant activity. branching reduces viscosity and stickiness vs linear propylene glycol. excellent solvent for challenging actives. antimicrobial boosting from diol structure.

Typically Found In: Premium serums,active delivery systems

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Methylpropanediol's methyl branch provides a 25% reduction in dynamic viscosity vs linear butylene glycol at equivalent concentration — a physically measurable skin feel improvement from the branching's reduction of intermolecular attractive forces. this viscosity reduction translates directly to the 'less sticky, lighter' skin feel that premium formulations require.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Solubilizes fragrance oils and other lipophilic ingredients into water-based formulations.

Why It's Used: Standard fragrance solubilizer for water-based formulations – the industry standard for incorporating oil-soluble fragrances and actives into aqueous systems without separate oil phase.

How It Works: Hlb ~16.7 provides strong solubilization capacity for oils in water. laurate (c12) chain provides milder skin interaction than higher-hlb polysorbates. polyoxyethylene chains (20 eo units) provide high water solubility. effective solubilizer at 3-4:1 polysorbate:fragrance ratio.

Typically Found In: Toners,micellar waters,fragrance-containing aqueous products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – sorbitan ester emulsifier/solubilizer

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – sorbitol from plant, peg from petroleum

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Same peg 1,4-dioxane concern as all peg compounds. quality-grade ps-20 should be tested for impurities.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Polysorbate 20's optimal solubilization ratio (3-4 parts ps-20 per part fragrance oil) is lower than expected from pure hlb theory. this efficiency arises from polysorbate's formation of very small, stable oil-in-water microemulsions (droplets <50nm) rather than conventional emulsions, providing optically clear, thermodynamically stable fragrance incorporation that conventional emulsifiers cannot achieve.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Salicylic acid exfoliates the skin surface and inside pores, dissolves the 'glue' holding dead skin cells together, reduces sebum production, and combats acne-causing bacteria.

Why It's Used: Its oil solubility makes it uniquely effective at penetrating pores and dissolving sebum plugs – a function that water-soluble ahas cannot perform. it is the preferred exfoliant for oily, acne-prone, and congested skin.

How It Works: Salicylic acid disrupts desmosomal bonds between corneocytes, promoting exfoliation. its oil solubility allows it to penetrate the sebaceous follicle, dissolving sebum and dead cells. it also has anti-inflammatory properties by inhibiting prostaglandin synthesis.

Typically Found In: Cleansers,toners,serums,spot treatments,masks,chemical peels,anti-dandruff shampoos,acne treatments

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – beta hydroxy acid (bha)

Secondary Functions: Anti-acne,anti-dandruff,keratolytic

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–2% (otc acne treatment in us); up to 30% in professional chemical peels

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or willow bark derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Naturally occurring in willow bark (salix alba) and wintergreen oil. commercially produced synthetically via kolbe-schmitt reaction for cosmetic use.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 3/5 – moderate; can cause dryness, peeling, and irritation, especially at higher concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic; actually anti-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Can cause irritation, dryness, and sun sensitivity. avoid contact with eyes. not recommended during pregnancy at high concentrations. can be drying – follow with moisturizer.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – start with lower concentrations and frequency; may not be suitable for reactive or rosacea-prone skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations (0.5–2%). regulated as a drug in some countries (us: fda category i acne treatment). avoid in pregnancy at high concentrations.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,zinc,tea tree oil,benzoyl peroxide (at different times),hyaluronic acid (to counteract dryness)

Avoid Combining With: High concentrations of retinol (cumulative irritation),multiple exfoliating acids simultaneously,benzoyl peroxide in same step (can increase irritation)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Salicylic acid is a member of the salicylate family and shares structural similarity with aspirin. its anti-inflammatory mechanism mirrors aspirin's cox inhibition pathway, making it uniquely effective for inflammatory acne.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,us fda acne monograph,journal of the american academy of dermatology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides hyaluronic acid hydration in the most formulation-stable and compatible form.

Why It's Used: The standard form of ha used in cosmetics – more stable than free ha, better solubility, and equivalent skin hydration benefits.

How It Works: Sodium salt reduces the polyelectrolyte repulsion of ha chains, allowing better packing in formulations. on skin, sodium ions dissociate and the ha chain unfolds to its full water-binding conformation. provides full ha humectant and barrier benefits equivalent to free ha.

Typically Found In: Hydrating serums,toners,moisturizers,sheet masks,anti-aging products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – ha sodium salt

Secondary Functions: Equivalent ha hydration,superior stability

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – bacterial fermentation

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

The sodium salt form of ha has approximately 10% better water solubility than free hyaluronic acid at equivalent molecular weight due to reduced chain-chain electrostatic repulsion from partial sodium counterion screening. this improved solubility enables higher concentration formulations without viscosity issues.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sodium hydroxide has an established safety profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sodium hydroxide technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12