Not Your Mother's She's A Tease Volumizing Hairspray

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection, soothing anti-inflammatory effects, and skin-conditioning benefits through plant-derived polyphenols and phytochemicals.

Why It's Used: Plant extracts concentrate bioactive phytochemicals evolved for environmental protection — uv, microbial, and oxidative stressors — that translate to skin benefits.

How It Works: Polyphenols (flavonoids, phenolic acids) inhibit nf-κb-mediated inflammatory signaling, scavenge reactive oxygen species through electron donation, and chelate pro-oxidant metal ions to reduce oxidative skin damage.

Typically Found In: Serums,toners,moisturizers,masks,essences

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Botanical extracts

Secondary Functions: Antioxidant,anti-inflammatory

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,ceramides

Avoid Combining With: Strong oxidizing agents

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites (flavonoids, terpenes, phenolic acids) are biosynthesized as defense compounds against uv, herbivores, and pathogens. their anti-inflammatory activity typically derives from competitive inhibition of cox-2 and 5-lox enzymes (ic50 1–50 µm), while antioxidant activity involves single electron transfer (set) and hydrogen atom transfer (hat) mechanisms with structure-dependent rate constants.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; phytochemical and ethnobotanical literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Absorbs or reflects uv radiation, preventing uv-induced dna damage, photo-oxidative stress, and premature skin aging.

Why It's Used: Uv filters are the active ingredients in sun protection — without them, formulations cannot make spf claims or prevent solar-induced skin damage.

How It Works: The uv-absorbing chromophore undergoes photoexcitation by uv photons, then dissipates the absorbed energy through thermal relaxation (chemical filters) or photon scattering/reflection (physical filters), preventing photon penetration to skin cells.

Typically Found In: Sunscreens,moisturizers with spf,foundations with spf

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Uv filters

Secondary Functions: Skin-protecting

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5–25% (within regulatory limits)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic uv filter; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Contact allergy to uv filters occurs in approximately 1–3% of the general population; patch testing recommended for those with known photosensitivity.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Regulatory approval required per market (eu annex vi, fda otc monograph, etc.). generally non-irritating at approved concentrations.

Works Well With: Other uv filters,antioxidants,emollients

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible filter combinations (photodegradation); check regulatory approvals per region

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Uv filters operate through two mechanisms: organic/chemical filters absorb uv photons through electronic excitation (π→π* transitions in conjugated systems), then dissipate energy via thermal relaxation; inorganic/physical filters (tio2, zno) scatter and reflect photons through mie scattering (particle size 50–300 nm) and band gap absorption. spf is measured in vivo (iso 24444) as the ratio of minimal erythema doses with and without sunscreen.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; eu cosmetics regulation annex vi; iso 24444 (in vivo spf testing)

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides soft, lasting rose-floral fragrance note.

Why It's Used: Essential rose fragrance monoterpene for lasting smooth floral notes in high-quality perfumery and cosmetic fragrances.

How It Works: Allylic alcohol monoterpene provides fixative property in fragrance blends. good skin substantivity for lasting scent. softer, rounder rose note vs geraniol's fresher character. natural in rose otto at 18-34%.

Typically Found In: Rose perfumes,floral fragrances,luxury skincare

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – monoterpene alcohol

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from rose, geranium, citronella oils

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Citronellol's r-enantiomer (natural) vs s-enantiomer (synthetic) provide meaningfully different scent character – a remarkable demonstration of chiral scent discrimination by olfactory receptors. the (r) form provides the characteristic rose note while the (s) form has a distinctly different, less pleasant character. this enantiomeric scent difference means that the biological handedness of naturally-sourced vs racemic synthetic citronellol produces perceptibly different fragrance quality.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides fresh rose-geranium floral scent with antimicrobial activity.

Why It's Used: The rose fragrance terpene – geraniol defines the fresh, sweet rose-geranium note found in more than 60 essential oils and is essential for recreating natural floral fragrance profiles.

How It Works: Monoterpene alcohol inhibits bacterial membrane integrity for antimicrobial activity. activates trpv1 for anti-nociception. inhibits nf-kb for anti-inflammatory activity. antioxidant via allylic radical scavenging.

Typically Found In: Rose-scented products,floral fragrances,natural cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – acyclic monoterpene alcohol

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from rose, geranium, palmarosa oils

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Geraniol's isomers (geraniol, nerol, citronellol) provide subtly different scent characters despite identical molecular formulae (c10h18o): geraniol provides the sweet, fresh rose note while its z-isomer nerol has a more delicate, neroli-like character. these isomeric scent differences arise from different spatial presentation of the hydroxyl and double bond groups to the olfactory receptor – demonstrating the extraordinary structural sensitivity of olfactory perception.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Panthenol deeply moisturizes skin and hair, soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, strengthens the skin barrier, and improves hair elasticity and shine.

Why It's Used: It is used because it is exceptionally versatile, working in both skin and hair formulations. it is gentle enough for sensitive and post-procedure skin, and converts to the active vitamin b5 within the skin.

How It Works: Panthenol penetrates skin and hair, where it is oxidized to pantothenic acid (vitamin b5), a coenzyme a precursor essential to metabolism. in skin, it acts as a humectant and stimulates fibroblast proliferation. in hair, it coats the shaft, improving manageability.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,toners,after-sun products,wound healing products,shampoos,conditioners,hair masks,beard care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – provitamin b5

Secondary Functions: Anti-inflammatory,wound healing,hair conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5% (typical: 1–3%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetically produced

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially synthesized. both d- and dl-forms used in cosmetics; d-panthenol is the biologically active isomer but dl-panthenol is less expensive and widely used.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; one of the most soothing ingredients in cosmetics

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare contact allergy; considered one of the safest cosmetic ingredients. suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – ideal for sensitive, reactive, and post-procedure skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Exceptionally safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or systemic toxicity. safe during pregnancy.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,allantoin,niacinamide,centella asiatica,retinol (reduces irritation),glycerin

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Panthenol has demonstrated wound-healing properties in clinical studies, stimulating fibroblast proliferation and migration. its dual humectant and anti-inflammatory action makes it particularly effective in barrier-repair formulations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ebner et al. (2002) skin pharmacology and applied skin physiology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Panthenol deeply moisturizes skin and hair, soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, strengthens the skin barrier, and improves hair elasticity and shine.

Why It's Used: It is used because it is exceptionally versatile, working in both skin and hair formulations. it is gentle enough for sensitive and post-procedure skin, and converts to the active vitamin b5 within the skin.

How It Works: Panthenol penetrates skin and hair, where it is oxidized to pantothenic acid (vitamin b5), a coenzyme a precursor essential to metabolism. in skin, it acts as a humectant and stimulates fibroblast proliferation. in hair, it coats the shaft, improving manageability.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,toners,after-sun products,wound healing products,shampoos,conditioners,hair masks,beard care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – provitamin b5

Secondary Functions: Anti-inflammatory,wound healing,hair conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5% (typical: 1–3%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetically produced

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially synthesized. both d- and dl-forms used in cosmetics; d-panthenol is the biologically active isomer but dl-panthenol is less expensive and widely used.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; one of the most soothing ingredients in cosmetics

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare contact allergy; considered one of the safest cosmetic ingredients. suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – ideal for sensitive, reactive, and post-procedure skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Exceptionally safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or systemic toxicity. safe during pregnancy.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,allantoin,niacinamide,centella asiatica,retinol (reduces irritation),glycerin

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Panthenol has demonstrated wound-healing properties in clinical studies, stimulating fibroblast proliferation and migration. its dual humectant and anti-inflammatory action makes it particularly effective in barrier-repair formulations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ebner et al. (2002) skin pharmacology and applied skin physiology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Prevents microbial contamination and spoilage in cosmetic formulations.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic preservative – eu-permitted up to 1%, effective against virtually all cosmetically relevant microorganisms, and excellent tolerability.

How It Works: Phenol ring provides broad antimicrobial activity via disruption of bacterial and fungal cell membranes and inhibition of enzymatic activity. effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeasts (candida), and molds (aspergillus). activity ph range: 3-9.

Typically Found In: All cosmetic formulations as primary preservative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – broad-spectrum preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1% (eu max 1%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation max 1%. sccs assessed as safe at ≤1%. avoid use around eyes in baby products per some country regulations. ewg score: 4.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Phenoxyethanol's widespread adoption as the primary cosmetic preservative followed the phaseout of parabens from many formulations in the 2000s-2010s. despite having a comparable or better safety profile to parabens, it is often cited in 'free-from' formulations – a consumer perception issue rather than a scientific safety concern.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sccs opinion on phenoxyethanol,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection from reactive oxygen species, reduces inflammatory cytokine production in skin, and conditions skin through the plant's phytochemical complex.

Why It's Used: Natural origin narrative, traditional use heritage, and multi-functional phytochemical profile supporting concurrent skin care claims from one ingredient.

How It Works: Polyphenols, terpenoids, and alkaloids scavenge ros via h• donation, inhibit nf-kb or cox-2 inflammatory pathways, and interact with skin surface proteins for conditioning.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care,natural products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites evolved as photoprotectants and antimicrobials — mechanisms directly applicable to cosmetic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in human skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,pyrus malus (apple) fruit extract botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides stable vitamin e delivery with antioxidant activity after esterase hydrolysis in skin.

Why It's Used: The formulation-stable vitamin e — tocopheryl acetate's ester protection prevents oxidative degradation during shelf life while releasing active tocopherol in skin for equivalent biological activity.

How It Works: Acetate ester blocks the phenolic oh group responsible for oxidation and radical scavenging. skin esterases cleave acetate bond releasing free tocopherol. released tocopherol provides lipid peroxyl radical scavenging in cell membranes. also provides direct emollient and skin conditioning.

Typically Found In: Moisturisers,sunscreens,anti-aging products — extremely widespread

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – stable vitamin e ester

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – natural from vegetable oils (soy, sunflower); synthetic dl-form

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: The d-alpha-tocopheryl acetate (natural isomer) is biologically superior to dl-alpha-tocopheryl acetate (racemic synthetic) for skin antioxidant activity. ingredient label d- vs dl- prefix identifies natural vs synthetic origin.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Tocopheryl acetate's conversion to active tocopherol in skin is quantitatively efficient: skin esterase activity is sufficient to cleave 60-80% of applied tocopheryl acetate within 24 hours of application. however, the conversion rate varies with skin condition (eczematous or barrier-compromised skin has reduced esterase activity), meaning tocopheryl acetate efficacy may be reduced precisely in the skin conditions that most need antioxidant support.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12