Nourish Mantra Urban Youth Preserve Night Glow Cream with Retinol for Youthful-Looking Skin - 50ml

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Lightweight, stable emollient that solubilizes oil-soluble actives for excellent delivery without greasy feel.

Why It's Used: Universal lightweight emollient base and solubilizer for oil-soluble actives in serums and low-viscosity formulations where mineral oil or petrolatum would be too heavy.

How It Works: Medium-chain length provides ideal balance of spreading coefficient, penetration rate, and barrier-sealing properties. excellent solubilizer for vitamin e, retinoids, and other lipophilic actives.

Typically Found In: Serums,facial oils,sunscreens,anti-aging products,hair products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – medium-chain triglyceride emollient

Secondary Functions: Active solubilizer,spreading agent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut/palm kernel oil

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fractionated by hydrolysis and re-esterification of coconut oil. only c8 and c10 fatty acids retained.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – very low; medium-chain length generally non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Mct oil's medium-chain length (c8/c10) provides superior oxidative stability vs longer polyunsaturated chains and better skin aesthetics (lighter, less greasy) vs longer chain emollients (c16/c18). excellent solubilizer for retinoic acid, tocopheryl esters, and other lipophilic actives.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Attracts and retains moisture in the sc, improves skin barrier function at low concentrations, provides gentle keratolytic softening, and acts as a co-solvent for water-soluble actives.

Why It's Used: The reference humectant — lowest cost, best safety profile, universal formulation compatibility, and present naturally in the sc via lipase-mediated glycerolipid hydrolysis makes glycerin the industry standard against which all humectants are benchmarked.

How It Works: Three hydroxyl groups form 6 h-bonds with water molecules per glycerol unit — the highest oh-group density per carbon of any commercial humectant. glycerin also down-regulates epidermal serine proteases that overactivate in dry sc, improving desquamation and barrier integrity.

Typically Found In: All cosmetics,universal

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–40%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Epidermal lipases hydrolyse sc glycerophospholipids during cornification, releasing glycerol that contributes to the natural nmf — topical glycerin directly supplements this endogenous sc humectant pool.

Last Verified: Cosing database,glycerin universal humectant review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Hyaluronic acid draws and locks moisture into the skin at multiple depths (surface and deeper layers depending on molecular weight), creating a plumping, smoothing, and hydrating effect.

Why It's Used: It is used because it is endogenous to human skin, making it exceptionally biocompatible and non-irritating. its unparalleled moisture-binding capacity makes it the most effective hydrating ingredient available.

How It Works: Ha binds water molecules through its many hydroxyl and carboxyl groups, creating a gel-like matrix. high molecular weight ha (>500 kda) hydrates the skin surface; low molecular weight ha (<50 kda) penetrates deeper to provide interior hydration.

Typically Found In: Serums,moisturizers,sheet masks,toners,eye creams,lip treatments,dermal fillers (injectable)

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – humectant/hydrator

Secondary Functions: Barrier repair,plumping,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2% (effective at very low concentrations; multi-weight ha provides superior results)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – biotechnology-derived (microbial fermentation of streptococcus equi or b. subtilis); vegan-certified versions widely available

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Originally extracted from rooster combs; now predominantly produced via biotechnology (bacterial fermentation), which is vegan and more sustainable.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; one of the gentlest skincare ingredients known

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: In very dry environments, high-molecular-weight ha on the surface can potentially draw moisture out of the skin if not sealed with an occlusive. apply to damp skin and seal with moisturizer.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – ideal for all skin types including rosacea, eczema, and post-procedure skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Exceptional safety profile. endogenous molecule – no toxicity concerns. ewg hazard score: 1. safe during pregnancy.

Works Well With: Virtually all ingredients; especially ceramides,glycerin,peptides,retinol (reduces irritation),niacinamide,vitamin c

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities; high concentrations of alcohol in a formula may reduce its efficacy

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Hyaluronic acid naturally degrades in skin (half-life ~1–2 days). the skin produces it endogenously, but production decreases with age. multi-molecular-weight ha formulas provide hydration at both surface and deeper skin levels.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,papakonstantinou et al. (2012) dermato-endocrinology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Prevents microbial contamination and spoilage in cosmetic formulations.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic preservative – eu-permitted up to 1%, effective against virtually all cosmetically relevant microorganisms, and excellent tolerability.

How It Works: Phenol ring provides broad antimicrobial activity via disruption of bacterial and fungal cell membranes and inhibition of enzymatic activity. effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeasts (candida), and molds (aspergillus). activity ph range: 3-9.

Typically Found In: All cosmetic formulations as primary preservative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – broad-spectrum preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1% (eu max 1%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation max 1%. sccs assessed as safe at ≤1%. avoid use around eyes in baby products per some country regulations. ewg score: 4.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Phenoxyethanol's widespread adoption as the primary cosmetic preservative followed the phaseout of parabens from many formulations in the 2000s-2010s. despite having a comparable or better safety profile to parabens, it is often cited in 'free-from' formulations – a consumer perception issue rather than a scientific safety concern.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sccs opinion on phenoxyethanol,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection, anti-inflammatory activity, and skin conditioning from polyphenols, terpenoids, and phytochemicals.

Why It's Used: Multi-functional phytochemical profiles support concurrent skin care claims with authentic botanical heritage from one ingredient.

How It Works: Polyphenols scavenge ros, inhibit nf-kb/cox pathways, and interact with skin surface proteins for conditioning.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care,natural products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites evolved for uv photoprotection and pathogen defence — mechanisms directly translatable to cosmetic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in human skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,purified water botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Retinol accelerates skin cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, fades hyperpigmentation, and helps normalize pore size.

Why It's Used: It is the most evidence-backed anti-aging ingredient available without a prescription. it provides comprehensive skin renewal benefits that no other single cosmetic ingredient can match.

How It Works: Retinol is converted in the skin to retinoic acid, which binds to retinoid receptors in cell nuclei. this activates gene expression changes that accelerate cell turnover, boost collagen synthesis, and inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (collagen-degrading enzymes).

Typically Found In: Night creams,serums,eye creams,targeted treatment products,anti-aging formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – vitamin a derivative

Secondary Functions: Exfoliating,anti-acne,brightening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.025%–1% (otc); start at low concentrations and build up slowly

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – can be animal-derived (fish liver, egg yolk) or synthetic; verify source

Halal Status: Conditional – verify source; synthetic retinol is halal

Source Notes: Cosmetic retinol is predominantly synthetically manufactured. some natural sources include fish liver oils. synthetic is preferred for purity and sustainability.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 3/5 – moderate; can cause dryness, peeling, redness, especially during adjustment period (retinization)

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic; actually helps clear pores

Sensitivity Concerns: Retinization period: 2–6 weeks of potential dryness, flaking, and sensitivity. photosensitizing – must use spf when using retinol. avoid during pregnancy.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – start at 0.025%, buffer with moisturizer, use every 2–3 nights initially

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe for general use at otc concentrations. not recommended during pregnancy. avoid with waxing. use spf daily. ewg hazard score: varies by concentration.

Works Well With: Niacinamide (soothes irritation),peptides,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf (mandatory)

Avoid Combining With: Benzoyl peroxide (may inactivate retinol),ahas/bhas (when new to retinol – overexfoliation risk),vitamin c (use at different times)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Retinol is approximately 20 times less potent than prescription tretinoin (retinoic acid) but significantly better tolerated. the conversion rate of retinol to retinoic acid in skin is the rate-limiting step in its efficacy.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,journal of investigative dermatology,kligman et al. studies

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides deep nourishing emolliency with anti-inflammatory cinnamic acid esters and a uniquely rich unsaponifiable fraction.

Why It's Used: The most nutritious plant butter – unique cinnamic acid esters, lupeol, and rich unsaponifiable fraction provide anti-inflammatory and wound healing benefits beyond standard fatty acid emolliency.

How It Works: Cinnamic acid esters absorb uv radiation providing mild natural uv filtering (spf 3-4). lupeol inhibits nf-kb for anti-inflammatory activity. high stearic acid provides occlusive barrier function. rich unsaponifiable fraction (4-9%) provides phytosterols, tocopherols, and triterpenes for bioactive skin benefits.

Typically Found In: Body butters,rich moisturizers,baby products,hair conditioners,lip balms

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Cinnamic acid uv support,lupeol anti-inflammatory,rich emolliency

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from butyrospermum parkii nuts

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Unrefined (raw) shea retains more unsaponifiable fraction and stronger natural scent/color. refined shea is odorless, white, and cleaner for formulation. certified fair trade supports west african women's cooperatives.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic (refined); 2/5 – low (raw/unrefined)

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Shea butter's unsaponifiable fraction (4-9%, vs coconut oil's 0.5% and olive oil's 1-2%) is exceptionally rich in triterpenes, phytosterols, and tocopherols. this fraction is responsible for shea's anti-inflammatory and wound healing properties that simple fatty acid analysis fails to reveal.

Last Verified: Cosing database,lin et al. shea butter cinnamic acid study,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12