OLAY CLEANSING MELTS + RETINOL

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Adjusts ph to optimal ranges, chelates destabilizing metal ions, provides mild exfoliation at higher concentrations.

Why It's Used: Universal cosmetic ph adjuster and chelating agent. aha exfoliant activity is secondary.

How It Works: As ph adjuster, donates protons. as chelating agent, three carboxylic groups bind divalent metals (ca²⁺, mg²⁺, fe²⁺) preventing oxidative degradation.

Typically Found In: Nearly all cosmetic formulations,brightening products,exfoliants

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – alpha hydroxy acid (aha)

Secondary Functions: Chelating agent,ph adjustment,preservation enhancement

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or fermentation-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Produced by fermentation of sugars by aspergillus niger. gras (e330). most abundant organic acid in citrus.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low at low concentrations; 2/5 at exfoliant concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Photosensitizing – mandatory spf use. start at low frequency.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – spf required

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations. eu: ≤10% leave-on at ph ≥3.5. mandatory spf advisory.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf

Avoid Combining With: Retinol in same step; multiple exfoliants simultaneously

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Three carboxylic acid groups provide multiple proton donation sites and stronger chelation than monocarboxylic ahas. this makes citric acid the preferred cosmetic chelating agent alongside edta.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Disodium cocoyl glutamate has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,disodium cocoyl glutamate technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides water-soluble film formation for peel-off mask and stripping exfoliant applications.

Why It's Used: The peel-off mask standard — pva is the primary film-forming polymer for peel-off face masks providing transparent, flexible, skin-stripping films that physically remove surface sebum and trapped particles on removal.

How It Works: Partially hydrolysed polyvinyl acetate provides hydroxyl-rich polymer backbone. aqueous film formation from chain entanglement on water evaporation. flexible, transparent films from pva's low tg. water-soluble from hydroxyl groups. peel-off ability from adhesion balanced with cohesion.

Typically Found In: Peel-off masks,film-forming primers,stripping products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 5%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Pva film's peel-off adhesion arises from a specific polymer concentration-dependent phenomenon: at 5-8% pva, films form but lack cohesion (tear on removal); at 10-15% pva, films have sufficient cohesion to peel off cleanly while maintaining enough adhesion to trap sebum and surface debris. this concentration-dependent adhesion/cohesion balance requires precise pva molecular weight and degree of hydrolysis for optimal peel performance.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Retinol accelerates skin cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, fades hyperpigmentation, and helps normalize pore size.

Why It's Used: It is the most evidence-backed anti-aging ingredient available without a prescription. it provides comprehensive skin renewal benefits that no other single cosmetic ingredient can match.

How It Works: Retinol is converted in the skin to retinoic acid, which binds to retinoid receptors in cell nuclei. this activates gene expression changes that accelerate cell turnover, boost collagen synthesis, and inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (collagen-degrading enzymes).

Typically Found In: Night creams,serums,eye creams,targeted treatment products,anti-aging formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – vitamin a derivative

Secondary Functions: Exfoliating,anti-acne,brightening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.025%–1% (otc); start at low concentrations and build up slowly

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – can be animal-derived (fish liver, egg yolk) or synthetic; verify source

Halal Status: Conditional – verify source; synthetic retinol is halal

Source Notes: Cosmetic retinol is predominantly synthetically manufactured. some natural sources include fish liver oils. synthetic is preferred for purity and sustainability.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 3/5 – moderate; can cause dryness, peeling, redness, especially during adjustment period (retinization)

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic; actually helps clear pores

Sensitivity Concerns: Retinization period: 2–6 weeks of potential dryness, flaking, and sensitivity. photosensitizing – must use spf when using retinol. avoid during pregnancy.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – start at 0.025%, buffer with moisturizer, use every 2–3 nights initially

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe for general use at otc concentrations. not recommended during pregnancy. avoid with waxing. use spf daily. ewg hazard score: varies by concentration.

Works Well With: Niacinamide (soothes irritation),peptides,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf (mandatory)

Avoid Combining With: Benzoyl peroxide (may inactivate retinol),ahas/bhas (when new to retinol – overexfoliation risk),vitamin c (use at different times)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Retinol is approximately 20 times less potent than prescription tretinoin (retinoic acid) but significantly better tolerated. the conversion rate of retinol to retinoic acid in skin is the rate-limiting step in its efficacy.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,journal of investigative dermatology,kligman et al. studies

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides alanine amino acid mild cleansing with hard water compatibility and superior skin feel.

Why It's Used: Hard water compatible amino acid surfactant — sodium cocoyl alaninate's alanine head group provides better hard water foam stability than glutamate surfactants while maintaining excellent skin mildness.

How It Works: Alanine (non-polar methyl amino acid) provides different head group polarity vs glutamate/glycinate. hard water compatible foam — better than glutamate surfactants in mineral-rich water. excellent skin feel from alanine's non-polar character. cosmos approved.

Typically Found In: Cosmos natural shampoos,hard water cleansing systems

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 3%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from alanine (fermentation) + coconut fatty acid

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sodium cocoyl alaninate's hard water compatibility vs sodium lauroyl glutamate reflects different calcium sensitivity: glutamate's two carboxylates bind calcium strongly (forming insoluble calcium glutamate soap that kills foam), while alanine's single ester structure is less sensitive to calcium, preserving foam in hard water where many amino acid surfactants fail.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cosmos standard

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides deodorant efficacy through lipase inhibition preventing odour compound formation rather than masking.

Why It's Used: Aluminium-free deodorant active with clinically proven efficacy — the only deodorant active that prevents odour formation upstream rather than masking or killing bacteria.

How It Works: Inhibits skin surface microbial lipases that hydrolyse triglycerides to free fatty acids (primary underarm odour compounds). odourless triglycerides not broken down; odorous fatty acids (propionic, isovaleric, butyric) not produced.

Typically Found In: Aluminium-free deodorants,natural deodorants

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – deodorant

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from citric acid and ethanol

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Triethyl citrate's lipase inhibition is genuinely upstream of odour formation — inhibiting the enzyme that creates odour from odourless precursors rather than masking produced odour or killing bacteria. this odour-prevention approach is unique among non-aluminium deodorant actives.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12