Philip B Nordic Wood Hair + Body Shampoo

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides nmf-type humectant moisture retention and skin conditioning.

Why It's Used: Simple, well-tolerated nmf amino acid humectant for skin conditioning formulations.

How It Works: Small methyl side chain contributes to protein hydrophobic core but as free amino acid provides direct humectant activity via amino and carboxyl groups. converted to pyruvate for cellular atp production via gluconeogenesis.

Typically Found In: Nmf moisturizers,skin conditioning products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – amino acid

Secondary Functions: Nmf component,cellular energy

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived or synthetic. natural skin component.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; endogenous skin molecule.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. natural skin nmf component. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,peptides,other amino acids

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Free alanine is among the most abundant amino acids in the stratum corneum nmf, where it contributes to the aqueous phase hydration that keeps the stratum corneum flexible and functional.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, promotes skin cell renewal, and provides mild keratolytic exfoliation.

Why It's Used: Gold standard multi-function soothing active – one of the most widely used cosmetic ingredients across all product types for its exceptional tolerability and clinically proven multi-action skin conditioning.

How It Works: Promotes keratinocyte proliferation and fibroblast migration for wound healing. mild keratolytic activity by disrupting corneocyte binding. anti-irritant via direct protein binding and anti-inflammatory cytokine reduction. humectant activity via hydroxyl groups.

Typically Found In: Post-procedure products,sensitive skin formulas,wound care,anti-acne treatments,baby products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – soothing / anti-inflammatory

Secondary Functions: Wound healing,keratolytic,anti-irritant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or comfrey-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Exceptionally well-tolerated; suitable for all skin types including baby and compromised skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – particularly recommended for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Allantoin's keratinocyte proliferation stimulation occurs via receptor-mediated signaling (possibly machr activation) rather than non-specific irritation-driven proliferation, making it a true wound-healing stimulant rather than a pro-inflammatory proliferative signal.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,araújo et al. allantoin review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Conditions skin, attracts moisture, supports wound healing, and improves microcirculation via no synthesis.

Why It's Used: Multi-functional amino acid for skin hydration, conditioning, and wound healing in peptide and nmf formulations.

How It Works: Guanidinium group binds water (humectant). substrate for nitric oxide synthase (enos) producing nitric oxide that vasodilates capillaries improving skin nutrition. stimulates fibroblast proliferation for wound healing.

Typically Found In: Anti-aging serums,wound healing products,nmf moisturizers,scalp treatments

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – amino acid

Secondary Functions: Wound healing,microcirculation,nmf component

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived or synthetic. natural skin component.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; endogenous skin molecule.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. natural skin nmf component. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,peptides,other amino acids

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Arginine is a conditionally essential amino acid in wound healing where local demand exceeds synthesis capacity. topical arginine provides the nos substrate locally for no-mediated vasodilation and immune cell function in healing tissue.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,witte & barbul arginine wound healing review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides osmoprotective humectant conditioning with anti-irritant and mild foam-boosting activity.

Why It's Used: Natural-origin multifunctional osmolyte from sugar beet providing hydration, anti-irritancy, and conditioning in virtually every cosmetic category.

How It Works: Quaternary ammonium betaine provides zwitterionic character for water binding via ionic hydration. osmoprotective function at 100–500mm as compatible solute protecting cells from osmotic stress. reduces surfactant irritation by competing with sls for protein binding sites. mild foam enhancement.

Typically Found In: Virtually all categories — moisturisers, shampoos, cleansers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from beta vulgaris (sugar beet) molasses

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Betaine's anti-irritant mechanism for surfactant systems involves competitive protein protection: betaine at high concentrations preferentially interacts with skin proteins, occupying binding sites that would otherwise be occupied by surfactant molecules causing protein denaturation. this competition reduces available protein binding for irritating surfactants, explaining betaine's well-documented ability to reduce sls irritation when co-formulated.

Last Verified: Cosing database,craig betaine osmoprotective review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Specialty active ingredient; check individual sourcing for vegan status.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides cooling sensation, analgesic, and anti-itch activity through trpm8 and trpv1 modulation.

Why It's Used: Cooling-sensation active with topical analgesic and anti-itch benefits for soothing formulations requiring temperature-sensation modification.

How It Works: Activates trpm8 (cold thermoreceptor) for cooling sensation. at higher concentrations, desensitizes trpv1 (heat/pain receptor) for analgesic activity. penetration enhancement via stratum corneum lipid fluidization. antimicrobial via membrane disruption.

Typically Found In: Cooling balms,topical pain relief,anti-itch products,sensory skincare

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – monoterpenoid sensory active

Secondary Functions: Redness reduction,anti-inflammatory,calming

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from cinnamomum camphora or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate at high concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Avoid contact with eyes. can cause skin sensitization at concentrations above eu limit. contraindicated in infants and young children.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – particularly recommended for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu max 1.5% (leave-on body). avoid near eyes. do not apply to broken skin. not for infant use near face.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Camphor's concurrent activation of trpm8 (cooling) and desensitization of trpv1 (heat/pain) provides a unique dual sensory modulation that both masks pain (trpv1 desensitization) and replaces it with a pleasant cooling sensation (trpm8 activation) – explaining the well-documented analgesic efficacy of camphor-containing topical preparations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides aromatic sensory benefit alongside bioactive skin activity from concentrated plant volatile compounds — including antimicrobial activity (tea tree, thyme, clove), anti-inflammatory activity (lavender, chamomile), or circulatory stimulation (peppermint, rosemary).

Why It's Used: Essential oils provide authentic 'aromatherapy' narrative with genuine bioactive chemistry — the concentrated terpenoid constituents have documented biological activity in addition to olfactory benefit, justifying ingredient claims beyond pure fragrance.

How It Works: Essential oil complexity: steam distillation concentrates volatile terpenes (monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes), phenylpropanoids, and other volatiles. antimicrobial activity from terpenoid membrane disruption (terpinen-4-ol, eugenol, thymol disrupt bacterial membranes); anti-inflammatory from sesquiterpene nf-kb inhibition; sensitisation risk from electrophilic monoterpene oxides and aldehydes.

Typically Found In: Aromatherapy,bioactive skin care,fragrance

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Essential oil concentration in cosmetics must respect ifra (international fragrance association) guidelines — each oil has category-specific maximum use levels based on skin sensitisation quantitative risk assessment (qra). tea tree oil maximum 0.5% (rinse-off), lavender oil 2% (leave-on skin) as examples.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards,essential oil bioactive fragrance review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antimicrobial skin conditioning with deodorant activity and preservation system enhancement.

Why It's Used: Multifunctional clean beauty preservation active — ethylhexylglycerin provides antimicrobial, deodorant, and skin conditioning in a single ingredient accepted in most natural cosmetic certification schemes.

How It Works: Glycerol ether provides antimicrobial via bacterial membrane phospholipid disruption. deodorant activity via reduction of underarm lipase enzyme activity (similar mechanism to triethyl citrate). skin conditioning from glycerol humectant component. synergistic with phenoxyethanol and diols.

Typically Found In: Natural preservation systems,deodorants,skin conditioning products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – antimicrobial glycerol ether

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–0.5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ethylhexylglycerin's deodorant mechanism is pharmacologically identical to triethyl citrate: both inhibit skin surface microbial lipase enzymes that convert odourless triglycerides to odorous free fatty acids. the glycerol ether structure of ethylhexylglycerin, combined with the 2-ethylhexyl chain, provides lipase inhibition similar to ester-based lipase inhibitors from a different chemical class.

Last Verified: Cosing database,schülke sensiva sc 10 technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides nmf amino acid skin conditioning and collagen-constituent support.

Why It's Used: The collagen amino acid — glycine is the most abundant amino acid in collagen (every third residue in the triple helix is glycine) making topical glycine the most physiologically relevant collagen-support amino acid.

How It Works: Nmf component via zwitterionic water retention. collagen triple helix requires gly-x-y repeat where glycine's small size allows close packing. wound healing via fibroblast glutathione synthesis support. anti-inflammatory via glycine-gated chloride channel activation (inhibitory neuromodulator).

Typically Found In: Skin conditioning products,wound healing,nmf moisturisers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – simplest amino acid

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – fermentation or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycine's mandatory presence at every third position in collagen's triple helix (gly-x-y repeat) arises from its unique zero side-chain structure — only glycine is small enough to fit at the sterically restricted centre of the triple helix where the three polypeptide chains cross. no other amino acid can substitute for glycine in the collagen triple helix without disrupting the structure, making glycine irreplaceable in collagen biology.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12