Pilgrim 24K Gold Serum With Niacinamide & Hyaluronic Acid | Fragrance free | For All Skin types | (20 ml)

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Specialty active ingredient; check individual sourcing for vegan status.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1899-12-31 00:00:00 -0800

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides osmoprotective humectant conditioning with anti-irritant and mild foam-boosting activity.

Why It's Used: Natural-origin multifunctional osmolyte from sugar beet providing hydration, anti-irritancy, and conditioning in virtually every cosmetic category.

How It Works: Quaternary ammonium betaine provides zwitterionic character for water binding via ionic hydration. osmoprotective function at 100–500mm as compatible solute protecting cells from osmotic stress. reduces surfactant irritation by competing with sls for protein binding sites. mild foam enhancement.

Typically Found In: Virtually all categories — moisturisers, shampoos, cleansers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from beta vulgaris (sugar beet) molasses

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Betaine's anti-irritant mechanism for surfactant systems involves competitive protein protection: betaine at high concentrations preferentially interacts with skin proteins, occupying binding sites that would otherwise be occupied by surfactant molecules causing protein denaturation. this competition reduces available protein binding for irritating surfactants, explaining betaine's well-documented ability to reduce sls irritation when co-formulated.

Last Verified: Cosing database,craig betaine osmoprotective review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides transparent gel textures and thickening at very low concentrations via ph-responsive swelling.

Why It's Used: The most widely used gel thickener – provides crystal-clear, stable gels at concentrations as low as 0.1-0.5% with ph-controlled viscosity.

How It Works: Highly crosslinked polyacrylic acid remains tightly coiled at acidic ph. neutralization with naoh or triethanolamine ionizes carboxylic groups causing electrostatic repulsion that unfolds and swells the polymer coils, dramatically increasing viscosity. concentration-dependent thickening.

Typically Found In: Gels,serums,emulsions,sunscreens

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – polyacrylic acid thickener

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Carbomer's ph-responsive swelling mechanism provides an elegant formulation control tool: a neutralized gel can be liquefied by ph reduction (adding acid) and re-thickened by reneutralization. this reversible rheology control allows two-phase products that mix on application without the need for mechanical emulsification.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antimicrobial skin conditioning with deodorant activity and preservation system enhancement.

Why It's Used: Multifunctional clean beauty preservation active — ethylhexylglycerin provides antimicrobial, deodorant, and skin conditioning in a single ingredient accepted in most natural cosmetic certification schemes.

How It Works: Glycerol ether provides antimicrobial via bacterial membrane phospholipid disruption. deodorant activity via reduction of underarm lipase enzyme activity (similar mechanism to triethyl citrate). skin conditioning from glycerol humectant component. synergistic with phenoxyethanol and diols.

Typically Found In: Natural preservation systems,deodorants,skin conditioning products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – antimicrobial glycerol ether

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–0.5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ethylhexylglycerin's deodorant mechanism is pharmacologically identical to triethyl citrate: both inhibit skin surface microbial lipase enzymes that convert odourless triglycerides to odorous free fatty acids. the glycerol ether structure of ethylhexylglycerin, combined with the 2-ethylhexyl chain, provides lipase inhibition similar to ester-based lipase inhibitors from a different chemical class.

Last Verified: Cosing database,schülke sensiva sc 10 technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Heptyl glucoside has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,heptyl glucoside technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides exceptional moisture retention with mild keratolytic action softening rough, dry skin.

Why It's Used: Used as a gentler, more formulation-stable alternative to urea in moisturizers and treatments where urea's irritation or formulation limitations are concerns.

How It Works: The hydroxyethyl group improves aqueous stability vs urea while maintaining hydrogen bond donation/acceptance for water retention. mild keratolytic activity from urea moiety softens stratum corneum without significant irritation.

Typically Found In: Intensive moisturizers,keratolytic treatments,body lotions,foot care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – urea derivative humectant

Secondary Functions: Keratolytic,superior humectant,skin softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. better tolerated than high-concentration urea. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Hydroxyethyl modification significantly improves urea's aqueous stability (preventing hydrolysis to ammonia and co2) while the urea moiety retains hydrogen bond-forming capacity for superior water retention. superior formulation stability vs urea at equivalent concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,loden urea review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Prevents microbial contamination and spoilage in cosmetic formulations.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic preservative – eu-permitted up to 1%, effective against virtually all cosmetically relevant microorganisms, and excellent tolerability.

How It Works: Phenol ring provides broad antimicrobial activity via disruption of bacterial and fungal cell membranes and inhibition of enzymatic activity. effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeasts (candida), and molds (aspergillus). activity ph range: 3-9.

Typically Found In: All cosmetic formulations as primary preservative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – broad-spectrum preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1% (eu max 1%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation max 1%. sccs assessed as safe at ≤1%. avoid use around eyes in baby products per some country regulations. ewg score: 4.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Phenoxyethanol's widespread adoption as the primary cosmetic preservative followed the phaseout of parabens from many formulations in the 2000s-2010s. despite having a comparable or better safety profile to parabens, it is often cited in 'free-from' formulations – a consumer perception issue rather than a scientific safety concern.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sccs opinion on phenoxyethanol,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides mould and yeast focused broad-spectrum preservation in a widely accepted food-grade preservative.

Why It's Used: Standard mould and yeast preservative — potassium sorbate is effective at slightly higher ph than sodium benzoate, making it the preferred sorbate preservative for formulations at ph 4.5-6.

How It Works: Inactive salt form — sorbic acid (free acid, pka 4.76) is active. more effective than benzoate at higher ph (pka 4.76 vs benzoate 4.2). active at ph up to ~6.0 (meaningful sorbic acid present). inhibits malassezia and candida at lower concentrations than bacteria. synergistic with sodium benzoate.

Typically Found In: Cosmetics ph 4-6,natural preservation systems,combined with sodium benzoate

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – sorbate preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–0.6%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu max 0.6% cosmetics. fda gras. synergistic with sodium benzoate. oxidises to sorbaldehyde (yellow colouration) on uv exposure — protect from light.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Potassium sorbate's antifungal mechanism (disruption of mitochondrial electron transport in fungi) is different from its antibacterial mechanism (cell membrane and enzyme disruption). this mechanistic bifunctionality provides broad spectrum from a single preservative, though the lower antifungal mic values mean mould and yeast protection is achieved at lower concentrations than bacterial protection.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu preservative annex v,fda gras,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant and solvent functionality from sustainable corn-based fermentation.

Why It's Used: Bio-based propylene glycol alternative from renewable corn — propanediol provides equivalent functionality to propylene glycol with sustainable renewable feedstock and superior skin feel.

How It Works: Two oh groups provide humectant water binding. excellent solvent for fragrances, actives, and preservatives. mild antimicrobial from diol structure for preservative system boosting. renew corn fermentation origin (dupont zemea process). better skin feel than propylene glycol — less sticky.

Typically Found In: Virtually all cosmetic categories as pg alternative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from corn sugar fermentation

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Propanediol's dupont tate & lyle bio products 'zemea' process ferments corn sugar to 1,3-propanediol using engineered e. coli — one of the first commercially viable bio-fermentation routes to a cosmetic diol previously made only from petroleum. the renewable route produces chemically identical 1,3-propanediol while reducing carbon footprint by approximately 40% vs petrochemical synthesis.

Last Verified: Cosing database,dupont tate & lyle zemea technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection, anti-inflammatory activity, and skin conditioning from polyphenols, terpenoids, and phytochemicals.

Why It's Used: Multi-functional phytochemical profiles support concurrent skin care claims with authentic botanical heritage from one ingredient.

How It Works: Polyphenols scavenge ros, inhibit nf-kb/cox pathways, and interact with skin surface proteins for conditioning.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care,natural products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites evolved for uv photoprotection and pathogen defence — mechanisms directly translatable to cosmetic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in human skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,purified water botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12