Rich Moist Foaming Cleanser

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides osmoprotective humectant conditioning with anti-irritant and mild foam-boosting activity.

Why It's Used: Natural-origin multifunctional osmolyte from sugar beet providing hydration, anti-irritancy, and conditioning in virtually every cosmetic category.

How It Works: Quaternary ammonium betaine provides zwitterionic character for water binding via ionic hydration. osmoprotective function at 100–500mm as compatible solute protecting cells from osmotic stress. reduces surfactant irritation by competing with sls for protein binding sites. mild foam enhancement.

Typically Found In: Virtually all categories — moisturisers, shampoos, cleansers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from beta vulgaris (sugar beet) molasses

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Betaine's anti-irritant mechanism for surfactant systems involves competitive protein protection: betaine at high concentrations preferentially interacts with skin proteins, occupying binding sites that would otherwise be occupied by surfactant molecules causing protein denaturation. this competition reduces available protein binding for irritating surfactants, explaining betaine's well-documented ability to reduce sls irritation when co-formulated.

Last Verified: Cosing database,craig betaine osmoprotective review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Lightweight, stable emollient that solubilizes oil-soluble actives for excellent delivery without greasy feel.

Why It's Used: Universal lightweight emollient base and solubilizer for oil-soluble actives in serums and low-viscosity formulations where mineral oil or petrolatum would be too heavy.

How It Works: Medium-chain length provides ideal balance of spreading coefficient, penetration rate, and barrier-sealing properties. excellent solubilizer for vitamin e, retinoids, and other lipophilic actives.

Typically Found In: Serums,facial oils,sunscreens,anti-aging products,hair products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – medium-chain triglyceride emollient

Secondary Functions: Active solubilizer,spreading agent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut/palm kernel oil

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fractionated by hydrolysis and re-esterification of coconut oil. only c8 and c10 fatty acids retained.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – very low; medium-chain length generally non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Mct oil's medium-chain length (c8/c10) provides superior oxidative stability vs longer polyunsaturated chains and better skin aesthetics (lighter, less greasy) vs longer chain emollients (c16/c18). excellent solubilizer for retinoic acid, tocopheryl esters, and other lipophilic actives.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides anti-inflammatory organic sulfur for skin strengthening from msm.

Why It's Used: Bioavailable organic sulfur anti-inflammatory — msm provides the sulfur required for keratin disulfide bonding and collagen sulfur amino acids alongside anti-inflammatory activity, making it a functional sulfur supplement for both structural skin proteins and inflammatory skin conditions.

How It Works: (ch3)2so2: highly bioavailable sulfur. anti-inflammatory: nf-kb inhibition + oxidative stress reduction. keratin: disulfide bond sulfur source. collagen: methionine + cysteine content. anti-acne: anti-inflammatory + antimicrobial. oral supplement: joint pain, anti-inflammatory. topical: skin brightening + anti-inflammatory.

Typically Found In: Anti-inflammatory skin care,strengthening products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Msm sulfur bioavailability: msm's dimethyl sulfone form provides sulfur without the digestive hydrogen sulfide issues of inorganic sulfates. topically, msm penetrates sc readily from low mw (94 da) + high oil-water partition compatibility, delivering sulfur to dermis for keratin/collagen synthesis cofactor function. this combination of sc penetration + sulfur bioavailability makes msm the most practical topical sulfur supplement.

Last Verified: Cosing database,msm anti-inflammatory review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Reduces skin inflammation and redness through 11β-hsd inhibition (cortisol-amplifying mechanism), inhibits tyrosinase and melanogenesis for brightening, and provides antioxidant protection from the triterpenoid phenol system.

Why It's Used: One of few botanicals with documented cortisone-amplifying anti-inflammatory mechanism — 11β-hsd inhibition elevates local cortisol concentration in skin tissue, providing a pharmaceutical-level anti-inflammatory effect without direct corticosteroid application.

How It Works: Glycyrrhetinic acid inhibits 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase (11β-hsd) — the enzyme that converts active cortisol to inactive cortisone in peripheral tissues. inhibition elevates local skin cortisol, amplifying the glucocorticoid anti-inflammatory response. simultaneously, glabridin (a flavonoid in licorice) inhibits tyrosinase for brightening.

Typically Found In: Anti-inflammatory,soothing,brightening

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

11β-hsd inhibition by glycyrrhetinic acid was first documented in the context of licorice consumption causing pseudoaldosteronism — the same enzyme inhibition applied topically provides localised cortisol amplification for cosmetic anti-inflammatory activity without systemic effects.

Last Verified: Cosing database,glycyrrhetinic acid 11β-hsd anti-inflammatory review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antimicrobial c12 fatty acid activity against p. acnes and skin pathogens alongside emollient conditioning.

Why It's Used: Antimicrobial emollient with documented anti-acne activity through p. acnes membrane disruption – the primary antimicrobial fatty acid in human breast milk and coconut oil.

How It Works: C12 chain length is optimal for antimicrobial fatty acid activity: long enough for membrane insertion but short enough for effective disruption. disrupts p. acnes lipid membrane. converts to monolaurin (antimicrobial monoglyceride) via skin esterases. low melting point (44°c) provides liquid-phase emolliency above skin temperature.

Typically Found In: Anti-acne products,antimicrobial skin care,coconut-based products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – c12 medium chain fatty acid

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut (cocos nucifera)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 4/5 – moderate to high comedogenic potential

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Lauric acid's antimicrobial activity against p. acnes (ic50 ~1μg/ml) exceeds benzoyl peroxide's ic50 (~50μg/ml) by approximately 50-fold in in vitro studies, making it one of the most potent naturally occurring anti-p. acnes compounds. its high comedogenicity rating (4/5) presents the paradox of a powerful anti-acne active in a comedogenic vehicle – limiting its practical anti-acne formulation use.

Last Verified: Cosing database,nakatsuji et al. lauric acid anti-acne study,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant hydration alongside solubilization of water-soluble actives and preservation boosting.

Why It's Used: Multi-function glycol for comprehensive formulation utility: hydration, solubilization, and preservation in a single cost-effective ingredient.

How It Works: Two hydroxyl groups provide water binding for humectant activity. propylene backbone provides solvent capacity for both polar and moderately non-polar actives. antimicrobial activity via membrane disruption enhancing preservative systems.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,toners,almost all aqueous formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – glycol humectant / solvent

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from propylene oxide (petrochemical) or bio-based (corn fermentation)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate; potential sensitizer in sensitive individuals at high concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-established safety profile. ewg score: 3. bio-based pg available from corn fermentation.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Propylene glycol's dual polarity (two hydroxyl groups + propylene hydrocarbon backbone) enables dissolution of ingredients spanning a wide hydrophilicity range – from highly polar actives (amino acids, glycerin) to moderately lipophilic actives (salicylic acid, retinol). this broad solubility range makes it uniquely versatile as a cosmetic solvent.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides mild amino acid-derived cleansing with specific anti-caries activity in oral care applications.

Why It's Used: The oral care surfactant — sodium lauroyl sarcosinate provides mild foaming in toothpaste alongside documented anti-caries activity from sarcosinate's interaction with tooth enamel.

How It Works: N-methyl amino acid lauroyl amide provides mild anionic surfactancy from carboxylate head group. anti-caries via inhibition of plaque acid production by oral bacteria. foam in toothpaste provides mechanical cleaning delivery. milder than sls for oral mucous membrane compatibility.

Typically Found In: Toothpaste,mild cleansers,shampoos

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – mild amino acid surfactant

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – sarcosine and lauric acid (plant)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate's anti-caries activity via plaque inhibition was discovered in the 1980s and is sufficiently documented that it's listed as an anticaries agent in some markets. the sarcosinate group (n-methylglycine amide) inhibits glucosyltransferase enzymes that synthesise the insoluble glucan matrix of dental plaque — inhibiting plaque adhesion, a complementary mechanism to fluoride's enamel strengthening.

Last Verified: Cosing database,delbeke et al. sls alternative review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides fatty acid thickening and emolliency with soap-forming emulsification when neutralized.

Why It's Used: Classic cosmetic fatty acid used in virtually all cream and lotion formulations for thickening, emolliency, and opacification.

How It Works: Forms metal soaps (sodium stearate, potassium stearate) on reaction with alkalis for self-emulsification. crystallizes in lamellar networks for thickening. waxy solid provides opacification. low-viscosity melt above 69°c for easy processing.

Typically Found In: Creams,soaps,cleansers,emulsions – foundational ingredient

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – c18 saturated fatty acid

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from vegetable (palm, shea, soy stearin)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 2/5 – low

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Stearic acid's dual role as both an emulsifier precursor (when saponified to sodium stearate soap) and an emollient (as unmodified fatty acid) is unique among cosmetic fatty acids. in soap-based cleansers, stearic acid is intentionally partially saponified to create a balanced system: excess stearic acid provides skin-conditioning emolliency while the sodium stearate provides surfactancy – the chemical basis for 'superfatted' soaps.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12