Sebastian Texturizer

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides amino group-mediated preferential adsorption to damaged hair for targeted conditioning.

Why It's Used: Premium hair conditioning silicone – amino groups provide substantive adsorption to hair far exceeding pdms, with automatic targeting to the most damaged areas requiring conditioning.

How It Works: Amino (nh2) groups on silicone chain provide cationic character at normal ph, electrostatic adsorption to anionic hair surface. higher charge density at damaged sites increases adsorption where conditioning is most needed. si-o-si backbone provides permanent conditioning film with heat protection.

Typically Found In: Intensive conditioners,anti-frizz products,damage repair conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – amino-functional silicone

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Amodimethicone's amino group-driven substantivity to damaged hair is dramatically greater than non-functionalized pdms. studies show amodimethicone deposits 50-200× more mass on bleach-damaged hair vs virgin hair, providing an automatic 'damage detection' conditioning system that directs the most conditioning to the hair areas that need it most.

Last Verified: Cosing database,robbins hair science,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides natural warm-brown colour from heat-treated sugar for natural cosmetics.

Why It's Used: Natural brown colorant with food-grade safety credentials for clean beauty formulations requiring warm brown or amber shades.

How It Works: Complex mixture of pyranose-ring condensation products from heat-treated sugars. 5-hmf and melanoidin polymers provide brown colour. ph-stable in acidic formulations. soluble in water and lower alcohols.

Typically Found In: Natural cosmetics,bronzers,hair products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Colorant – natural brown dye

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from sucrose, glucose (plant sugars)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Caramel's colour develops through the maillard reaction between reducing sugars and amino acids at elevated temperatures, creating a complex mixture of coloured polymer (melanoidin) and small molecule chromophores. unlike single-compound dyes with defined absorption spectra, caramel's broad-spectrum absorption from multiple chromophores provides a naturally warm, complex brown impossible to replicate with a single synthetic dye.

Last Verified: Cosing database,fda 21 cfr color additives

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides a dry, weightless application vehicle that evaporates cleanly leaving actives and non-volatile silicones deposited on skin — eliminating the residual heaviness of conventional liquid carrier solvents.

Why It's Used: Cyclosiloxanes are the unique volatile silicone solvents that dissolve non-volatile silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone), organic uv filters, and lipophilic actives, providing the sensory-superior dry-touch application experience in premium formulations.

How It Works: Cyclosiloxane vapour pressure (d5 cyclopentasiloxane ~0.3 mmhg at 25°c) provides clean evaporation at body temperature. the cyclic ring structure provides lower boiling point than equivalent linear dimethicone, enabling faster evaporation while the ring conformation maintains the silicone's low surface energy for smooth application.

Typically Found In: Primers,antiperspirants,sunscreens

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cyclopentasiloxane (d5) and cyclohexasiloxane (d6) are under eu regulatory review for potential environmental persistence (pbt assessment) — formulators should monitor eu regulation 2018/35 implementation for restrictions in wash-off products.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu cyclosiloxane regulatory review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glucose has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,glucose technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Deposits a conditioning, moisture-retaining film on skin and hair from substantive protein-surface adsorption, delivers amino acids for sc keratin compatibility, and provides temporary firming from the protein film's tensile properties.

Why It's Used: Provides the conditioning benefits of structural proteins in a topically deliverable form — molecular weight distribution determines whether surface film formation (high mw) or sc penetration with deeper conditioning (low mw <500 da) predominates.

How It Works: Low-mw protein hydrolysate fractions (<500 da) penetrate the sc via aqueous channels; high-mw fractions adsorb substantively to negative hair and skin surfaces through h-bonding and electrostatic interactions. film formation reduces tewl and provides mechanical smoothing.

Typically Found In: Hair conditioners,skin serums,conditioning

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Optimal hydrolysis degree for hair conditioning: mw 1,000–5,000 da — large enough for adsorption to hair cuticle, small enough to penetrate the cuticle surface and access cortex damage sites.

Last Verified: Cosing database,hydrolyzed soy protein hydrolysed protein review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Hydrolyzed wheat protein has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,hydrolyzed wheat protein technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Methylparaben has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,methylparaben technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Panthenol deeply moisturizes skin and hair, soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, strengthens the skin barrier, and improves hair elasticity and shine.

Why It's Used: It is used because it is exceptionally versatile, working in both skin and hair formulations. it is gentle enough for sensitive and post-procedure skin, and converts to the active vitamin b5 within the skin.

How It Works: Panthenol penetrates skin and hair, where it is oxidized to pantothenic acid (vitamin b5), a coenzyme a precursor essential to metabolism. in skin, it acts as a humectant and stimulates fibroblast proliferation. in hair, it coats the shaft, improving manageability.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,toners,after-sun products,wound healing products,shampoos,conditioners,hair masks,beard care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – provitamin b5

Secondary Functions: Anti-inflammatory,wound healing,hair conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5% (typical: 1–3%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetically produced

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially synthesized. both d- and dl-forms used in cosmetics; d-panthenol is the biologically active isomer but dl-panthenol is less expensive and widely used.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; one of the most soothing ingredients in cosmetics

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare contact allergy; considered one of the safest cosmetic ingredients. suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – ideal for sensitive, reactive, and post-procedure skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Exceptionally safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or systemic toxicity. safe during pregnancy.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,allantoin,niacinamide,centella asiatica,retinol (reduces irritation),glycerin

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Panthenol has demonstrated wound-healing properties in clinical studies, stimulating fibroblast proliferation and migration. its dual humectant and anti-inflammatory action makes it particularly effective in barrier-repair formulations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ebner et al. (2002) skin pharmacology and applied skin physiology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Panthenol deeply moisturizes skin and hair, soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, strengthens the skin barrier, and improves hair elasticity and shine.

Why It's Used: It is used because it is exceptionally versatile, working in both skin and hair formulations. it is gentle enough for sensitive and post-procedure skin, and converts to the active vitamin b5 within the skin.

How It Works: Panthenol penetrates skin and hair, where it is oxidized to pantothenic acid (vitamin b5), a coenzyme a precursor essential to metabolism. in skin, it acts as a humectant and stimulates fibroblast proliferation. in hair, it coats the shaft, improving manageability.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,toners,after-sun products,wound healing products,shampoos,conditioners,hair masks,beard care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – provitamin b5

Secondary Functions: Anti-inflammatory,wound healing,hair conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5% (typical: 1–3%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetically produced

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially synthesized. both d- and dl-forms used in cosmetics; d-panthenol is the biologically active isomer but dl-panthenol is less expensive and widely used.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; one of the most soothing ingredients in cosmetics

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare contact allergy; considered one of the safest cosmetic ingredients. suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – ideal for sensitive, reactive, and post-procedure skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Exceptionally safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or systemic toxicity. safe during pregnancy.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,allantoin,niacinamide,centella asiatica,retinol (reduces irritation),glycerin

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Panthenol has demonstrated wound-healing properties in clinical studies, stimulating fibroblast proliferation and migration. its dual humectant and anti-inflammatory action makes it particularly effective in barrier-repair formulations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ebner et al. (2002) skin pharmacology and applied skin physiology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12