Sébium Lotion

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant hydration and active ingredient solubilization with excellent skin feel.

Why It's Used: Preferred glycol humectant in premium and k-beauty formulations for superior skin feel vs propylene glycol with equivalent functionality.

How It Works: Two hydroxyl groups at 1,3-positions provide water binding and solvent activity. better tolerated than propylene glycol with minimal sensitization risk. 4-carbon backbone provides slightly greater hydrophobic character enabling dissolution of less polar actives vs pg.

Typically Found In: Toners,essences,serums,k-beauty formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – glycol humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

K-beauty's preference for butylene glycol over propylene glycol is driven by two factors: bg's superior skin feel (less tacky than pg's higher viscosity) and its lower sensitization potential (1,3-bg has better spatial distribution of hydroxyl groups that reduces protein interaction vs pg's 1,2-position oh groups).

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antimicrobial and sebum-regulating activity from naturally-derived caprylic acid-glycine conjugate.

Why It's Used: Natural multifunctional antimicrobial — capryloyl glycine's anti-seborrheic and antimicrobial dual action provides comprehensive oily skin and anti-dandruff benefits from a single naturally-sourced ingredient.

How It Works: Acyl glycine conjugate provides antimicrobial via fatty acid membrane disruption mechanism. inhibits lipase enzyme reducing sebum fatty acid liberation (sebum regulation). mild surfactant from carboxylate head group. anti-dandruff via malassezia inhibition.

Typically Found In: Anti-seborrheic products,natural antimicrobials,anti-dandruff

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – acyl amino acid surfactant/preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – caprylic acid from coconut + glycine from plant fermentation

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Capryloyl glycine's sebum regulation via lipase inhibition mirrors the same mechanism as triethyl citrate and ethylhexylglycerin — convergent mechanism discovery across structurally diverse ingredient classes. the parallel lipase inhibition by ester-based (triethyl citrate), ether-based (ethylhexylglycerin), and amide-based (capryloyl glycine) compounds validates lipase inhibition as a universally accessible target for sebum control through multiple chemical approaches.

Last Verified: Cosing database,schülke dermosoft gmcy technical data

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection, soothing anti-inflammatory effects, and skin-conditioning benefits through plant-derived polyphenols and phytochemicals.

Why It's Used: Plant extracts concentrate bioactive phytochemicals evolved for environmental protection — uv, microbial, and oxidative stressors — that translate to skin benefits.

How It Works: Polyphenols (flavonoids, phenolic acids) inhibit nf-κb-mediated inflammatory signaling, scavenge reactive oxygen species through electron donation, and chelate pro-oxidant metal ions to reduce oxidative skin damage.

Typically Found In: Serums,toners,moisturizers,masks,essences

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Botanical extracts

Secondary Functions: Antioxidant,anti-inflammatory

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1899-12-31 00:00:00 -0800

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,ceramides

Avoid Combining With: Strong oxidizing agents

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites (flavonoids, terpenes, phenolic acids) are biosynthesized as defense compounds against uv, herbivores, and pathogens. their anti-inflammatory activity typically derives from competitive inhibition of cox-2 and 5-lox enzymes (ic50 1–50 µm), while antioxidant activity involves single electron transfer (set) and hydrogen atom transfer (hat) mechanisms with structure-dependent rate constants.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; phytochemical and ethnobotanical literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Reduces surface tension at oil-water interfaces, enabling effective cleansing, emulsification, and formulation stability.

Why It's Used: Surface-active agents are essential for emulsification, cleansing, and stabilization of cosmetic formulations containing both aqueous and lipid phases.

How It Works: The amphiphilic molecular structure positions the hydrophilic head in water and the lipophilic tail in oils, creating micelles that solubilize sebum, dirt, and oil-soluble impurities for rinsing in cleansers or stable emulsions in leave-on products.

Typically Found In: Cleansers,shampoos,body washes,foaming treatments

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Surfactants

Secondary Functions: Emulsifying,cleansing

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or semi-synthetic surfactant; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: May cause irritation or stinging in sensitive or barrier-compromised skin at high concentrations; patch test recommended.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Conditional

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. mildly irritating to some individuals at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Other surfactants,thickeners,conditioning agents

Avoid Combining With: High concentrations in sensitive skin formulations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Surfactant critical micelle concentration (cmc) determines the threshold for emulsification: above the cmc, amphiphilic molecules self-assemble into micelles with hydrophobic cores that solubilize oils. hlb (hydrophile-lipophile balance) value predicts surfactant function: hlb 3–6 for w/o emulsifiers, 8–18 for o/w emulsifiers, >15 for solubilizers.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Solubilizes fragrance oils and other lipophilic ingredients into water-based formulations.

Why It's Used: Standard fragrance solubilizer for water-based formulations – the industry standard for incorporating oil-soluble fragrances and actives into aqueous systems without separate oil phase.

How It Works: Hlb ~16.7 provides strong solubilization capacity for oils in water. laurate (c12) chain provides milder skin interaction than higher-hlb polysorbates. polyoxyethylene chains (20 eo units) provide high water solubility. effective solubilizer at 3-4:1 polysorbate:fragrance ratio.

Typically Found In: Toners,micellar waters,fragrance-containing aqueous products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – sorbitan ester emulsifier/solubilizer

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – sorbitol from plant, peg from petroleum

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Same peg 1,4-dioxane concern as all peg compounds. quality-grade ps-20 should be tested for impurities.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Polysorbate 20's optimal solubilization ratio (3-4 parts ps-20 per part fragrance oil) is lower than expected from pure hlb theory. this efficiency arises from polysorbate's formation of very small, stable oil-in-water microemulsions (droplets <50nm) rather than conventional emulsions, providing optically clear, thermodynamically stable fragrance incorporation that conventional emulsifiers cannot achieve.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Salicylic acid exfoliates the skin surface and inside pores, dissolves the 'glue' holding dead skin cells together, reduces sebum production, and combats acne-causing bacteria.

Why It's Used: Its oil solubility makes it uniquely effective at penetrating pores and dissolving sebum plugs – a function that water-soluble ahas cannot perform. it is the preferred exfoliant for oily, acne-prone, and congested skin.

How It Works: Salicylic acid disrupts desmosomal bonds between corneocytes, promoting exfoliation. its oil solubility allows it to penetrate the sebaceous follicle, dissolving sebum and dead cells. it also has anti-inflammatory properties by inhibiting prostaglandin synthesis.

Typically Found In: Cleansers,toners,serums,spot treatments,masks,chemical peels,anti-dandruff shampoos,acne treatments

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – beta hydroxy acid (bha)

Secondary Functions: Anti-acne,anti-dandruff,keratolytic

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–2% (otc acne treatment in us); up to 30% in professional chemical peels

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or willow bark derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Naturally occurring in willow bark (salix alba) and wintergreen oil. commercially produced synthetically via kolbe-schmitt reaction for cosmetic use.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 3/5 – moderate; can cause dryness, peeling, and irritation, especially at higher concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic; actually anti-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Can cause irritation, dryness, and sun sensitivity. avoid contact with eyes. not recommended during pregnancy at high concentrations. can be drying – follow with moisturizer.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – start with lower concentrations and frequency; may not be suitable for reactive or rosacea-prone skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations (0.5–2%). regulated as a drug in some countries (us: fda category i acne treatment). avoid in pregnancy at high concentrations.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,zinc,tea tree oil,benzoyl peroxide (at different times),hyaluronic acid (to counteract dryness)

Avoid Combining With: High concentrations of retinol (cumulative irritation),multiple exfoliating acids simultaneously,benzoyl peroxide in same step (can increase irritation)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Salicylic acid is a member of the salicylate family and shares structural similarity with aspirin. its anti-inflammatory mechanism mirrors aspirin's cox inhibition pathway, making it uniquely effective for inflammatory acne.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,us fda acne monograph,journal of the american academy of dermatology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sodium citrate has an established safety profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sodium citrate technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Reduces acne, controls sebum, and inhibits p. acnes through multiple complementary zinc-dependent mechanisms.

Why It's Used: Highly bioavailable organic zinc salt for acne-prone skin combining antimicrobial, sebum-regulatory, and 5-alpha-reductase inhibition from a single well-tolerated ingredient.

How It Works: Zn²⁺ ions inhibit p. acnes growth and biofilm formation. inhibit 5-alpha-reductase reducing dht-driven sebum overproduction. anti-inflammatory via nf-kb inhibition reducing pro-inflammatory cytokines in sebaceous glands.

Typically Found In: Anti-acne treatments,oily skin products,cleansers,toners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – zinc salt skin active

Secondary Functions: Anti-acne,oil control,5-alpha-reductase inhibition

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – mineral/inorganic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Mineral/inorganic compound. cosmetic or pharmaceutical grade.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating at recommended concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes at recommended concentrations

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile at cosmetic concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,salicylic acid,other actives

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Zinc's 5-alpha-reductase type i inhibition in sebaceous glands reduces the conversion of testosterone to dht – the primary androgen driving sebaceous gland hyperactivity in androgenic acne. combined with direct p. acnes antimicrobial activity, zinc gluconate addresses both the hormonal and microbial aspects of acne.

Last Verified: Cosing database,dreno et al. zinc anti-acne review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12