Soonjung Director's Moisture Sun Cream

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Specialty active ingredient; check individual sourcing for vegan status.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1899-12-31 00:00:00 -0800

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant hydration and active ingredient solubilization with excellent skin feel.

Why It's Used: Preferred glycol humectant in premium and k-beauty formulations for superior skin feel vs propylene glycol with equivalent functionality.

How It Works: Two hydroxyl groups at 1,3-positions provide water binding and solvent activity. better tolerated than propylene glycol with minimal sensitization risk. 4-carbon backbone provides slightly greater hydrophobic character enabling dissolution of less polar actives vs pg.

Typically Found In: Toners,essences,serums,k-beauty formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – glycol humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

K-beauty's preference for butylene glycol over propylene glycol is driven by two factors: bg's superior skin feel (less tacky than pg's higher viscosity) and its lower sensitization potential (1,3-bg has better spatial distribution of hydroxyl groups that reduces protein interaction vs pg's 1,2-position oh groups).

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Dibutyl adipate has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,dibutyl adipate technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides maximum spf contribution per unit concentration from the highest-extinction-coefficient uvb filter.

Why It's Used: Most spf-efficient uvb filter — eht provides 6× more spf contribution per gram than omc, enabling high-spf formulations with minimal uv filter load.

How It Works: Three benzotriazole chromophores on triazine core provide εmax ~155,000 (vs omc ~24,000 — 6× more potent). photostable from triazine scaffold preventing chromophore photodegradation. oil-soluble for lipid phase.

Typically Found In: High-spf european sunscreens

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – efficient uvb filter

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Up to 5% (eu)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu approved. not fda approved. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ethylhexyl triazone's εmax of ~155,000 l/mol·cm is 6× greater than omc (~24,000), 48× greater than homosalate (~3,200), and represents the practical upper limit of organic uvb filter molar absorptivity. this extraordinary absorption coefficient arises from three benzotriazole chromophores geometrically arranged on the triazine core to simultaneously absorb uvb photons — a triplex chromophore design providing additive absorptivity.

Last Verified: Cosing database,basf uvinul t 150 technical data

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant moisture retention with antimicrobial preservative-boosting activity.

Why It's Used: The balanced multifunctional diol — pentylene glycol provides the ideal balance of humectancy and antimicrobial activity for clean beauty preservation systems with excellent sensory compatibility.

How It Works: C5 diol: longer chain than propylene glycol providing better antimicrobial activity but shorter than 1,2-hexanediol (slightly lower membrane activity). two oh groups provide humectant water binding. solvent for fragrances and some actives. synergistic with phenoxyethanol reducing required phenoxyethanol concentration.

Typically Found In: Clean beauty products,natural preservation systems,moisturisers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – multifunctional pentanediol

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Pentylene glycol's position in clean beauty preservation is due to a regulatory quirk: 1,2-pentanediol is not classified as a preservative in eu cosmetics regulations (unlike phenoxyethanol which requires preservative listing), so it can provide antimicrobial activity while not requiring the 'contains preservative' designation — enabling cleaner labels in natural-positioned formulations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,dsm hydrolite-5 technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Helps oil and water blend in creams and lotions while conditioning skin.

Why It's Used: Polyglyceryl-3 head provides hydrophilicity (hlb ~3–5); stearic acid (diester) tail provides oil-phase affinity; natural-origin compatible.

How It Works: Polyglycerol-3 backbone with stearic acid (diester) ester tail; hlb ~3–5; polyglyceryl esters are widely used natural-origin emulsifiers suitable for organic cosmetic certification.

Typically Found In: O/w emulsions,natural cosmetics,organic formulations,skin conditioning products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emulsifier

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning,surfactant,natural origin

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Polyglycerin from vegetable glycerol polymerization; stearic acid (diester) acid from plant sources; naturally derived.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low

Sensitivity Concerns: Very mild; suitable for sensitive skin. natural-origin ingredient.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Natural oils,plant butters,other natural emulsifiers,humectants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Pg-3 distearate; solid diester; very low hlb ~3-5; w/o emulsification.

Last Verified: Cosing database,inci dictionary,supplier technical data

Primary Sources: 2026-03-27

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant and solvent functionality from sustainable corn-based fermentation.

Why It's Used: Bio-based propylene glycol alternative from renewable corn — propanediol provides equivalent functionality to propylene glycol with sustainable renewable feedstock and superior skin feel.

How It Works: Two oh groups provide humectant water binding. excellent solvent for fragrances, actives, and preservatives. mild antimicrobial from diol structure for preservative system boosting. renew corn fermentation origin (dupont zemea process). better skin feel than propylene glycol — less sticky.

Typically Found In: Virtually all cosmetic categories as pg alternative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from corn sugar fermentation

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Propanediol's dupont tate & lyle bio products 'zemea' process ferments corn sugar to 1,3-propanediol using engineered e. coli — one of the first commercially viable bio-fermentation routes to a cosmetic diol previously made only from petroleum. the renewable route produces chemically identical 1,3-propanediol while reducing carbon footprint by approximately 40% vs petrochemical synthesis.

Last Verified: Cosing database,dupont tate & lyle zemea technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Absorbs uva (320–400 nm) and/or uvb (290–320 nm) photons with a high molar extinction coefficient, dissipates absorbed energy as vibrational heat, and contributes to the formulation's spf and critical wavelength.

Why It's Used: Organic uv filters are selected for their high molar extinction coefficient (>10,000 l/mol/cm for most commercial filters), specific spectral coverage complementing other filters in the system, and photostability under prolonged uv exposure.

How It Works: Aromatic π→π* and n→π* electronic transitions absorb uv photons exciting the chromophore to a singlet excited state (s₁). ultra-fast internal conversion (10⁻¹²–10⁻¹¹ s) dissipates excitation energy as heat rather than photochemical reactions, returning the molecule to the ground state for continued absorption.

Typically Found In: Sunscreens,spf formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Check local sunscreen limits

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Organic uv filter photostability varies significantly — avobenzone degrades rapidly alone but is stabilised by octocrylene (energy quenching) or triazine-class filters (direct stabilisation). filter combination selection must account for photostabilisation requirements of each component.

Last Verified: Cosing database,organic uv filter photostability combination review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Neutralises acidic cosmetic ingredients (carbomers, fatty acids, ahas) to target ph, provides ph stability through the tris/tris-h⁺ buffer system, and contributes to formulation gentleness versus stronger inorganic alkalis.

Why It's Used: Tris provides gentler ph adjustment than naoh — the organic amino alcohol buffer provides resistance to ph drift while the buffered system resists irritation spikes that can occur with strong base over-addition.

How It Works: Tris's primary amine (pka 8.1) provides buffering capacity at ph 7–9 through the nh₂/nh₃⁺ equilibrium. as an organic base, tris neutralises carbomer carboxylic acid groups forming the carboxylate salt required for gel formation. the buffering capacity prevents over-alkalinisation from base addition during manufacturing.

Typically Found In: Gel formulations,ph-sensitive actives

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Tris is particularly useful for neutralising carbomer-gelled formulations containing ph-sensitive actives (vitamin c, ahas) where naoh addition can cause localised high-ph zones — the tris buffer's pka 8.1 provides inherent ph ceiling limiting over-alkalinisation during mixing.

Last Verified: Cosing database,tromethamine tris ph buffer neutraliser review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12