Stella Seed - Amino Mason Moist Milk Cream Hair Treatment

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Conditions skin, attracts moisture, supports wound healing, and improves microcirculation via no synthesis.

Why It's Used: Multi-functional amino acid for skin hydration, conditioning, and wound healing in peptide and nmf formulations.

How It Works: Guanidinium group binds water (humectant). substrate for nitric oxide synthase (enos) producing nitric oxide that vasodilates capillaries improving skin nutrition. stimulates fibroblast proliferation for wound healing.

Typically Found In: Anti-aging serums,wound healing products,nmf moisturizers,scalp treatments

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – amino acid

Secondary Functions: Wound healing,microcirculation,nmf component

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived or synthetic. natural skin component.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; endogenous skin molecule.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. natural skin nmf component. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,peptides,other amino acids

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Arginine is a conditionally essential amino acid in wound healing where local demand exceeds synthesis capacity. topical arginine provides the nos substrate locally for no-mediated vasodilation and immune cell function in healing tissue.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,witte & barbul arginine wound healing review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides a dry, weightless application vehicle that evaporates cleanly leaving actives and non-volatile silicones deposited on skin — eliminating the residual heaviness of conventional liquid carrier solvents.

Why It's Used: Cyclosiloxanes are the unique volatile silicone solvents that dissolve non-volatile silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone), organic uv filters, and lipophilic actives, providing the sensory-superior dry-touch application experience in premium formulations.

How It Works: Cyclosiloxane vapour pressure (d5 cyclopentasiloxane ~0.3 mmhg at 25°c) provides clean evaporation at body temperature. the cyclic ring structure provides lower boiling point than equivalent linear dimethicone, enabling faster evaporation while the ring conformation maintains the silicone's low surface energy for smooth application.

Typically Found In: Primers,antiperspirants,sunscreens

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cyclopentasiloxane (d5) and cyclohexasiloxane (d6) are under eu regulatory review for potential environmental persistence (pbt assessment) — formulators should monitor eu regulation 2018/35 implementation for restrictions in wash-off products.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu cyclosiloxane regulatory review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides silicone-characteristic silky feel and skin protection with adjustable viscosity.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic silicone – sets the gold standard for silky application feel, spreadability, and skin protection in virtually all skin care categories.

How It Works: Polydimethylsiloxane chain flexibility provides extremely low surface tension and high spreadability. inert si-o backbone provides chemical stability and excellent skin tolerance. occlusive film formation reduces tewl. higher viscosity grades provide more intense conditioning.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,foundations,primers,sunscreens – nearly universal

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – polydimethylsiloxane

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Dimethicone's exceptional silky feel arises from its very low intermolecular attractive forces (weak van der waals forces due to non-polar methyl groups) that allow silicone chains to slide freely over skin. the coefficient of kinetic friction for pdms against skin (~0.04) is among the lowest of any cosmetic material – explaining why even small amounts transform product feel.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant moisture retention from the hygroscopic fructose/glucose matrix, antimicrobial activity from enzymatically generated h₂o₂ and (in manuka) methylglyoxal, anti-inflammatory activity from phenolic compounds, and wound healing promotion from growth factor activation.

Why It's Used: Honey is the only food-derived ingredient with documented clinical wound healing efficacy in medical grade form (medihoney) — combining humectancy, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and healing activity in a gras, consumer-familiar ingredient.

How It Works: Glucose oxidase in honey catalyses glucose + o₂ → gluconolactone + h₂o₂ — providing sustained low-level h₂o₂ generation that provides bactericidal activity without tissue toxicity. manuka honey's methylglyoxal (mgo) provides additional non-peroxide antimicrobial activity through protein glycation of bacterial enzymes.

Typically Found In: Wound care,anti-aging,humectant products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: No – bee-derived

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Manuka honey's unique mānuka factor (umf) grades correlate with methylglyoxal (mgo) concentration — umf10+ (mgo 263 mg/kg) provides bactericidal activity against mrsa at concentrations achievable in topical formulation.

Last Verified: Cosing database,honey manuka honey wound healing antimicrobial review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant moisture retention from the hygroscopic fructose/glucose matrix, antimicrobial activity from enzymatically generated h₂o₂ and (in manuka) methylglyoxal, anti-inflammatory activity from phenolic compounds, and wound healing promotion from growth factor activation.

Why It's Used: Honey is the only food-derived ingredient with documented clinical wound healing efficacy in medical grade form (medihoney) — combining humectancy, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and healing activity in a gras, consumer-familiar ingredient.

How It Works: Glucose oxidase in honey catalyses glucose + o₂ → gluconolactone + h₂o₂ — providing sustained low-level h₂o₂ generation that provides bactericidal activity without tissue toxicity. manuka honey's methylglyoxal (mgo) provides additional non-peroxide antimicrobial activity through protein glycation of bacterial enzymes.

Typically Found In: Wound care,anti-aging,humectant products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: No – bee-derived

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Manuka honey's unique mānuka factor (umf) grades correlate with methylglyoxal (mgo) concentration — umf10+ (mgo 263 mg/kg) provides bactericidal activity against mrsa at concentrations achievable in topical formulation.

Last Verified: Cosing database,honey manuka honey wound healing antimicrobial review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides collagen-specific hydroxyproline for triple-helix stability support and nmf conditioning.

Why It's Used: The collagen-specific nmf amino acid — hydroxyproline's almost exclusive occurrence in collagen makes it the most targeted amino acid for collagen-associated skin conditioning.

How It Works: 4-hydroxyproline provides inter-chain hydrogen bonding stabilising collagen triple-helix at body temperature. without hydroxyproline, collagen triple helix melts at 24°c (below body temperature). nmf component from hydroxyl group water binding. marker of collagen turnover — urinary hydroxyproline indicates collagen catabolism rate.

Typically Found In: Collagen-support products,nmf moisturisers,wound healing

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – collagen structural amino acid

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or hydrolysis of gelatin

Halal Status: Conditional – from gelatin if animal-derived; synthetic vegan available

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Hydroxyproline's role in collagen stability was definitively established through ramachandran's analysis of collagen triple helix geometry: the 4-hydroxyl group of hydroxyproline forms a water-mediated inter-strand hydrogen bond network that raises the triple-helix melting temperature from 24°c (without oh) to 37°c (with oh). this 13°c thermal stability gain from a single hydroxyl group is essential for collagen function at human body temperature.

Last Verified: Cosing database,bella et al. hydroxyproline collagen stability study,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Pca has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,pca technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Deposits a smooth, glossy film on skin and hair providing moisture retention from the high serine/glycine hygroscopic amino acid content, reduces surface friction, and provides skin conditioning through the protein film's structural properties.

Why It's Used: Silk protein provides the unique 'silky smooth' texture that synthetic polymers cannot fully replicate — the specific amino acid ratios of natural silk fibroin and sericin creating a film with genuine silk-like gloss and smoothness.

How It Works: Silk fibroin's β-sheet crystalline domains (high glycine-alanine-serine content) provide film tensile strength; amorphous regions provide flexibility. sericin (mw 10–300 kda) adsorbs onto skin and hair surfaces through h-bonding from its high serine oh content. the film's protein structure provides breathability absent from synthetic polymer films.

Typically Found In: Luxury skin care,hair conditioning,silk products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: No – silkworm

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sericin's amino acid composition is 33% serine — the highest serine content of any commercial protein. serine's β-hydroxyl group provides exceptional moisture-binding capacity (3 h-bonds per residue) explaining sericin's superior humectant conditioning versus lower-serine proteins.

Last Verified: Cosing database,silk protein sericin conditioning film review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides osmoprotective and antioxidant conditioning from the abundant sulfonic amino acid.

Why It's Used: Natural osmoprotectant amino acid providing cell volume regulation and anti-inflammatory activity for sensitive skin and scalp care formulations.

How It Works: Sulfonic group provides strong water binding for humectant osmoprotection. cell volume regulation via organic osmolyte function. antioxidant via hypochlorous acid (hocl) scavenging. anti-inflammatory via taurine chloramine formation. hair strengthening via disulfide bond formation support.

Typically Found In: Sensitive skin products,hair care,scalp treatments

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – sulfonic amino acid

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – fermentation or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Taurine's hypochlorous acid (hocl) scavenging is pharmacologically unique: hocl (produced by activated neutrophil myeloperoxidase during inflammation) is the most reactive of all common biological oxidants. taurine reacts with hocl to form taurine chloramine — far less reactive than hocl — providing targeted anti-inflammatory antioxidant activity against the most damaging inflammatory oxidant.

Last Verified: Cosing database,huxtable taurine review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12